Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Say i have a forged motor for argument sake a rb26.The motor has a full forged bottom end crank rods pistons and so on.

The kit is pulled out of the block and not marked,

So piston/gudgeon pin/rod are not marked where they came from.Even the rings are in a pile....

Any one offer some insight if this can go back together saftly

Is that a massive head #$%^ and if they don t go back together the correct way is it catasrophic failure time?

Any one shed some light on this as im not a mechanic.

As much detail as possible please.

Edited by Gtir-keiron

Its been running,Pulled apart

My mechanic told me that the gudeion pins have to go back where they come in the same way they came out. from also the pistons have to go back on the rods they came from and so on and so on.

I was planning on doing new rings and bearings but i wanted to know about the other stuff.

My mechanic is anal......Things have to be perfect.. in his world of putting motors together.

just wanted a performance opinon.

Its been running,Pulled apart

My mechanic told me that the gudeion pins have to go back where they come in the same way they came out. from also the pistons have to go back on the rods they came from and so on and so on.

I was planning on doing new rings and bearings but i wanted to know about the other stuff.

My mechanic is anal......Things have to be perfect.. in his world of putting motors together.

just wanted a performance opinon.

Your mechanic is a guy who is trying to pose as someone who knows what he is doing.

Linish pins, resize and balance conrods as well as balance pistons and it doesnt matter what is what. As when they are balanced the piston and pin are matched to avoid taking too much off the piston. If you had a light piston and pin matched together you would have to grind excessive material off all the other pistons to get them to match up.

Someone who suggests putting an engine together without doing this clearly has no idea. Id say you grab your gear and go elsewhere mate.

A quick look at the early failure poll thread will show that there are a lot of guys who take on RB's without the experience with the poor customer footing the bill. Ive screwed together quite a few engines in my time but when i opted for a big dollar bill i went to the experts so the job was done right.

Edited by Supa Steve

Oh thats not what im saying.

Im saying he wants to know what gudeon pin came out of what piston and what rods it was connected to and what order the pistons were in.

Like i said hes anal about things when it comes to building motors.Hes a very good mechanic with alot of exp with RB Sr and nissan engines but sometimes i feel hes over the top and i don t want to spend money where i don t need too.

he already said i would have to replace the rings and bearing and i new that from the start.

Thats why im asking what my options are.

If i can get it all balanced and set up to as new or better then it should not be a problem yes?

thats why i wanted detailed infomation so i had options rather then him telling me i need to replace pistons and pins and things like that.

Oh thats not what im saying.

Im saying he wants to know what gudeon pin came out of what piston and what rods it was connected to and what order the pistons were in.

Like i said hes anal about things when it comes to building motors.Hes a very good mechanic with alot of exp with RB Sr and nissan engines but sometimes i feel hes over the top and i don t want to spend money where i don t need too.

he already said i would have to replace the rings and bearing and i new that from the start.

Thats why im asking what my options are.

If i can get it all balanced and set up to as new or better then it should not be a problem yes?

thats why i wanted detailed infomation so i had options rather then him telling me i need to replace pistons and pins and things like that.

i think you may have missed it so i will put it a bit more direct.

it means 3/5th's of f*ck all where what came from except for the rod caps which are generally numbered and anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is giving you incorrect information. Clean everything up and weight-match to ensure best clearance and minimum grinding of pistons. Rods NEED to be resized and balanced to ensure they are exact. If he is as pedantic as you state then this should be a given for him to understand. Pistons and pins will only need replacing if the pin has flogged out the bore of the pistons and/or bent the pins.

properly prepped and assembled serviceable parts will have your engine as good as new.

best of luck

As steve said, everything can be measured to confirm where it goes, however if there is no discernable difference when measuring, then it doesnt matter where they go. Then check balance and assemble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...