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hey guys

my car wont start ;/

the starter motor was clicking and not doing anything so have replaced that and still nothing

the only way we got the car to start was by jump starting it and having a jump pack on the front while the other car was jump starting it , THEN it started

let it idle for 10 minutes , shut it off and nothing. wont start again just clicks...

the alternator was showing 11v on idle but went up to 13.5v when revved

could it be the alternator ?

i replaced it just over a month ago and put a new battery in so it would be weird for that to happen :P

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The output from the alternator should be regulated at approx 13.4 volts but even a faulty regulator shouldn't stop the car from starting, unless the battery is already flat How many volts is your battery reading with the car off?

Battery might have dropped a cell or there's a faulty + - connection somewhere

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The output from the alternator should be regulated at approx 13.4 volts but even a faulty regulator shouldn't stop the car from starting, unless the battery is already flat How many volts is your battery reading with the car off?

Battery might have dropped a cell or there's a faulty + - connection somewhere

battery is returning 12v when the car is off

have the battery on charge now to bump it up to 13v

just tested my mates battery on his r33 and it returned 12.7v when its off & 13.8v when its on idle

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voltage reading wont mean that the battery is fine. if youve shorted anyhting out with the water in footwell thing its quite likely that the battery has dropped a cell and gone. chuck another one in there that you know is fine and see what happens...

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voltage reading wont mean that the battery is fine. if youve shorted anyhting out with the water in footwell thing its quite likely that the battery has dropped a cell and gone. chuck another one in there that you know is fine and see what happens...

have done that bro...

ive got had 3 different batteries in the car in the past 3 hours and same with every battery

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Letting it idle for 10 minutes aint enough to charge a battery...

Just disconnect the battery when your not driving it so nothing drains it.

and when i want to drive it , get someone to jump start me while i put a jump pack on it ?

right :P

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3 New batteries doesn't fix it (provided they're fully charges), not a battery problem, you've replaced the starter (with a new one?) , probally not a starter problem. I'd start chasing a connection issue.

1. Is the relay clicking or is it the starter/solenoid itself clicking?

2. If you connect your jump-pack/vehicle's earth to a point on the engine, and the + to your + jump point in the fuse box, does this allow it to start easier?

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and when i want to drive it , get someone to jump start me while i put a jump pack on it ?

So it wont start with just a jump pack, and it wont start with just jumper leads...

Jump packs on the front, so I assume the car is jumping from the boot?

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3 New batteries doesn't fix it (provided they're fully charges), not a battery problem, you've replaced the starter (with a new one?) , probally not a starter problem. I'd start chasing a connection issue.

1. Is the relay clicking or is it the starter/solenoid itself clicking?

2. If you connect your jump-pack/vehicle's earth to a point on the engine, and the + to your + jump point in the fuse box, does this allow it to start easier?

so confused right now o.O

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So it wont start with just a jump pack, and it wont start with just jumper leads...

Jump packs on the front, so I assume the car is jumping from the boot?

correct.

only time the car will start is if i have BOTH connected (battery on the back and jumper pack on the front)

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The starter motor is just clicking, sort of like when a battery goes flat?

A starter will draw well over 100a when cranking, if any of the cable runs are damaged (by water for instance) and are not capable of delivering 100+ amps (high resistance for example) then you will see similar behavior to that of a flat battery.

Check the condition of the cable run from the battery in the boot to the engine bay, see what resistance reading you get.

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The starter motor is just clicking, sort of like when a battery goes flat?

A starter will draw well over 100a when cranking, if any of the cable runs are damaged (by water for instance) and are not capable of delivering 100+ amps (high resistance for example) then you will see similar behavior to that of a flat battery.

Check the condition of the cable run from the battery in the boot to the engine bay, see what resistance reading you get.

where abouts does it run?

ive got no interior in the car so theoretically i should be able to see it easily? :laugh:

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so confused right now o.O

Lol. I assumed you were trying to jump start it from the battery in the boot, not the factory jump points in the engine bay, this would bypass the wiring from the battery to the starter, and eliminate it as a problem, along with your earths (by hooking the earth directly to the engine rather than the negative terminal of the battery).

Since you have done this already, and jumping it directly to the factory jump points doesn't work, check the lead from the fuse box jump point to the starter is in good condition and that the connection on the starter is tight (disconnect the battery before you try this), if this is all OK and it still won't start, your remaining options are:

1. The jump/pack leads you are using aren't good enough

2. The starter motor is faulty

3. The starter solenoid/relay/circuit is faulty (which can be checked by bridging power directly from your leads or starter main wire, to the solenoid switching wire)

4. You're doing something wrong

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where abouts does it run?

ive got no interior in the car so theoretically i should be able to see it easily? :happy:

It runs under the car, from the battery, through the floor, across to the drivers side "rail", along the car, then to the fuse box and starter. It is protected by conduit, but under the car it's easy to identify.

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Lol. I assumed you were trying to jump start it from the battery in the boot, not the factory jump points in the engine bay, this would bypass the wiring from the battery to the starter, and eliminate it as a problem, along with your earths (by hooking the earth directly to the engine rather than the negative terminal of the battery).

Since you have done this already, and jumping it directly to the factory jump points doesn't work, check the lead from the fuse box jump point to the starter is in good condition and that the connection on the starter is tight (disconnect the battery before you try this), if this is all OK and it still won't start, your remaining options are:

1. The jump/pack leads you are using aren't good enough

2. The starter motor is faulty

3. The starter solenoid/relay/circuit is faulty (which can be checked by bridging power directly from your leads or starter main wire, to the solenoid switching wire)

4. You're doing something wrong

1. they start other cars fine so id assume they are right for my car ?? :happy:

2. replaced starter motors yesterday and still have same issue

3. where abouts is the relay for this? (im still a bit lost on how to bridge it etc :s)

4. more then likely !

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That's good news, but must be frustrating not knowing!!

oh man, you have no idea, completely doing my head in !!!

now im trying to decide if i go to drift school this weekend or book the car into boostworx to get some work done

probably gonna go with the 2nd option

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