Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

up for sale to fit r33 gtr or gtst fibreglass made bootlid level fitting with rear guards (see pics)

pics on ebay link @

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-GTR-FLUSH-FITTI...2#ht_500wt_1154

(requires original bootlock to be fitted, does not come with bootlock!)

$120

msg/p.m or contact 0401954498

must sell as unwanted now!

thanks

jay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338478-r33-gtr-flush-fit-bootlid-syd/
Share on other sites

I am keen for this but i will not be able to get to Sydney for weeks, i am in Newcastle. If you are heading this way let me know and i will give you cash for your troubles.

not anytime soon! but yeh it can be couriered ill check with fastlane as well they were cheap. whats the postcode its going to and suburb?

  • 3 weeks later...

'verms': i will find out price on postage for that postcode!

'75coupe': i will upload a pic on car. sits flush with rear guards level and boot. made to fit level from fibreglass painted white. pick up is from liverpool area, sydney.

  • 2 weeks later...
'verms': i will find out price on postage for that postcode!

'75coupe': i will upload a pic on car. sits flush with rear guards level and boot. made to fit level from fibreglass painted white. pick up is from liverpool area, sydney.

I bought this for $100, payed another $100 to get it down to Melbourne...

200 bux later, the boot is not painted white as suggested, instead its yellowish, sprayed by spay can.

Also, you mention it sits "flush". There is nothing flush about this bootlid, nothing lines up, gaps everywhere3 and sticks out. Biggest 200 bux wasted. FUUK!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...