Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic got a used R35 Willall racing Ti cat back exhaust system.

condition is good and have no damage under the body or else.

asking $2200 for it, it done around 5000k's

also got a TOP SECRET TI y -pipe for sell too.

i am asking $ 1200 for it, it done less than 1000's (only put on when i do the cobb tune back in mid august.

reason for selling is due to upgrading to trust TD06 turbo kit. so need to more bigger flow exhaust .

if any iterest place call 0438222228 allen

part located in melbourne VIC (still on the car at the moment, but car is only be driven around weekends)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338720-r35-ti-exhaust-system/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

price update.

$1800 for the willall exhaust TI

(condition : use for around 4000k's does not have any damage or dent on the exhuast)

$2500 for the HKS style TI

( it is 90mm spec, not 80mm in the mid pipe part) and this HKS style one is custom made so it does not come with recenator when compare to normal HKS exhaust.

(condition : bought it new a month ago, done around 500k's,)

top secert Y-pipe $1000 TI (the one without resonator)

(it is 70mm x 2 to 94mm)

(condition : 4000k's...not a singal damage on it at all)

AMUSE style y-pipe $1250 TI (the one with resonator)

(condition donw around 500k's, it is bought in together with the HKS style mufler so condition is perfect too)

Edited by spec r
  • 10 months later...

Hi there,

Interested in your Willall Ti exhaust.

Do you need to retune your car once the exhaust is install?

I currently running a stillen mid pipe. Do you think it will fit without changing out mid pipe?

And finally, do you ship to NZ? If so, how much for shipping to postcode 4122 New Zealand.

Thanks.

price update.

$1800 for the willall exhaust TI

(condition : use for around 4000k's does not have any damage or dent on the exhuast)

$2500 for the HKS style TI

( it is 90mm spec, not 80mm in the mid pipe part) and this HKS style one is custom made so it does not come with recenator when compare to normal HKS exhaust.

(condition : bought it new a month ago, done around 500k's,)

top secert Y-pipe $1000 TI (the one without resonator)

(it is 70mm x 2 to 94mm)

(condition : 4000k's...not a singal damage on it at all)

AMUSE style y-pipe $1250 TI (the one with resonator)

(condition donw around 500k's, it is bought in together with the HKS style mufler so condition is perfect too)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...