Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

My car is about to get some major work done on it (*fingers crossed) and should be doing about 300rwhp after finished. I've heard rumours that the auto trans can only cope with 300 - 350 rwhp ..... any idea of prolonging the life and helping the auto trans cope with extra horsepower (other than getting a manual conversion :D)

Any ideas ... tried n tested theories etc would be appreciated.

Lauren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33873-prolonging-auto-trans-life/
Share on other sites

Thanks Steve :D

Knore ... currently make 246rwhp ( well used to before the big bang) with Blitz EBC, SAFC II, HKS Airpod and a Bosch fuel pump.

It is expected to make 280rwhp with an FMIC (which is waiting to go in) and dump pipes. Also going to have to rebuild the motor and put forgies in ..... not cos i want to ... cos i have too (went "Bang" at drags)

Ive been informed theres an aftermarket turbo waiting for my car .... not sure what type yet.

Hey everyone,

My car is about to get some major work done on it (*fingers crossed) and should be doing about 300rwhp after finished. I've heard rumours that the auto trans can only cope with 300 - 350 rwhp ..... any idea of prolonging the life and helping the auto trans cope with extra horsepower (other than getting a manual conversion :D)

Any ideas ... tried n tested theories etc would be appreciated.  

Lauren

The main thing is not to red line when changing up all the time, if you drive hard allot. If you do this allot you will stretch all the bands and stuff your clutch packs.

If you have been driving an auto for a while you'll know and feel when you're about to change up, just back off a little then come back on the gas.

All this said, if you are going to continue modding your ride, then be prepared for it to let go. I learned this the hard way. If you're gonna go for more kw's after this I'd get it serviced and maybe get your torque converter cleaned. It's pricey but better safe than sorry.

Yeah, and a tranmission cooler is a must as Steve said.

Cheers, Byron

As suggested before fit a transcooler, preferably front mounted, maybe where the original intercooler sits, depending on your plumbing.

Also have the transmission serviced. At my old work they had a flush machine where about 15 litres of ATF was pumped through the transmission. This helps preserve longevity of the transmission.

If it lets go, get it built with a small converter (something around 2500 -3000 rpm).

i never change gears manually ..... only to do motorkhanas. Although my car has changed at 7000rpm just with the power button on.

it gets driven reasonably hard ...... but not thrashed to buggery.

How much would i be looking at for one of these auto trans services?

Ive also heard to replace your auto box its only about $200 anyway cos noone wants them.

Yeh auto boxes arent expensive if you know where to look

Im also interested in how much it is to;

1. Do a full service on the gearbox IE Flush and check

2. Upgrade the autobox by putting better internals etc

How much is it to fit a shift kit with higher stall converter??

yeah i did the ask around regarding hi-stalls a while back ...... and basically same feedback as MJ's ..... not brillant for day to day driving which 80% of the time my car is used for. Its first time at the drags i managed to break it on its second run so i dont think it'll ever be a hardcore drag car LOL

Totally unrelated but i wonder if the triptronic R34's also have a power limit where transmission packs up n goes home.

get some quotes on a transmission cooler and also look at a stage 2 shift kit for the auto trans. this will provide some good launches, also invest in a pineapple kit. also recommend a good 3" exhaust and front/dump pipe of equivalent size if you dont already have these

got the 3'inch zorst ..... dump pipes be done after engine rebuild. Stage 2 shift kit? where do you buy these/ get more info on?

engine broke ...... 2nd runs started blowing black n blue smoke .... by third run the whole 1/4 was covered in it by my car. Saturday did a compression test .... number 4 leaking severly so some new pistons (investing in forged) are in order ..... other damage to engine if any will not know til it gets pulled out. Theres was a shit load of oil in my intake *sob* car went thru 1/2 tank full of oil just that night.

got the 3'inch zorst ..... dump pipes be done after engine rebuild. Stage 2 shift kit? where do you buy these/ get more info on?  

engine broke ...... 2nd runs started blowing black n blue smoke .... by third run the whole 1/4 was covered in it by my car. Saturday did a compression test .... number 4 leaking severly so some new pistons (investing in forged) are in order ..... other damage to engine if any will not know til it gets pulled out. Theres was a shit load of oil in my intake *sob* car went thru 1/2 tank full of oil just that night.

your local auto shop should be able to provide a quote and/or specs details on a kit, just find a good reputable auto trann specialist. kit includes a different torque converter and some other mixed goodies, not sure on full details. will increase shifting speed on the auto box, probably make it run a bit more cooler/more efficient and also smoother. you probably break traction a bit more with a stage 2 shift kit. its a common upgrade for the v8 auto's who want some more power,

i *believe* the tuner (dudes who fit the shift kit) can also adjust the shift level between a normal shift torque split (ie: the stock shifting level) to full which is somewhere up near the "crack the dashboard" shift level when it changes cogs in the auto box

hope this helps

an optional component of the stage 2 kit is the stall converter aka high stall, i believe

hold the rev's at set rpm and when you accel you accellerate

basically adjustable idle, instead of idle @ 800rpm you set it to say 2200 and as you sit at the lights your car is 2200rpm until you unleash fury by flooring it, you'd need a way to be able to turn it on/off during driving. with a stalled take off, you'll already have boost and wont loose it when you accel as you dont drop the power out via the clutch, you keep what ever boost you have and accel, probably not recommend for daily driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...