Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ladies and Gents, it's time that SAU:NSW throw another Social event.

We've recently held a successful evening out for our members with a few games of laser-tag followed up with a ghost tour, all of the people who came along had an amazing time, their only question? When's the next social event?

When??? Well the answer is OCTOBER 31st!.

What are we doing, I hear you ask??? Well we're taking a nice cruise from Kirrawee down to Headlands Hotel in Austinmer.

From where, and what time are we planning to leave??? Well we're meeting up at 10AM, for a 10:30AM Sharp leave, at the parking lot near the corner of Waratah St and Bath Road in Kirrawee.

55099d12.jpg

Where to then? Well, we head left out of that carpark to Toronto Parade, turn left, and follow this down to the Princes Highway.

After travelling down to the Princes Highway, we hang a right heading for the Royal National Park turn off at Sutherland.

post-31588-1285839628_thumb.jpg

As we near the National Park at Sutherland, we need to turn left down Farnell Ave. Once we turn here, there will be a bit of room on the left where we can pull over and get everyone to bunch back up.

post-31588-1285839620_thumb.jpg

As we head into the Royal National Park, we'll be informing the "Gatesmen" that we are not stopping in the National Park and travelling through to Wollongong. (Which we are, into a northern Suburb of Wollongong). This means we don't have to pay to go through.

From here we just shoot through the Royal National Park and pop out down the bottom at Bald Hill.

After Bald Hill, we will be taking the left turn down Lawrence Hargrave Drive.

post-31588-1285839636_thumb.jpg

We will follow Lawrence Hargrave Drive down until Headlands Ave, at which point we will turn left, and pull into the carpark at Headlands Hotel.

post-31588-1285839609_thumb.jpg

Now this hotel does have some "Down Under Hollywood Class", being the main on-site filming location for the Australian Show headLand

pub_2173.jpg

There is plenty of park land around the Hotel, and after a bit of a feed, I will be proposing a bit more socialising and some fun activities (Weather permitting)

If the weather does fault, then we'll just stay inside, have our chats, and shoot some pool.

On this cruise we will ALL be sticking to the speed limit.

There will be NO DRIFTING.

NO BURNOUTS

NOTHING ILLEGAL!

We will be the most courteous users on the road, and we will not be doing ANYTHING to cause any disrepute for the club.

As with all SAU:NSW events, this cruise will run under a CAMS permit.

This will be another fun day, with the only cost a bit of fuel, and what ever you decide to eat and drink.

For those of you who decide you need more than one or two during the afternoon, please organise a safe way home.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

... sounds like a top day ... if im not working ill go ... :( ...

... its been a while since i drove through the national park ... does it still have those little "causeway" dips in the road to let excess rain run off ... depending on that ill either take the R33 or micra ... :/ ...

... cheers malcolm :) ...

... sounds like a top day ... if im not working ill go ... :( ...

... its been a while since i drove through the national park ... does it still have those little "causeway" dips in the road to let excess rain run off ... depending on that ill either take the R33 or micra ... :) ...

... cheers malcolm :) ...

Hey Malcolm, they've recently resurfaced the top half of the National Park, and it's nice and smooth up there, the bottom section is still the "old" road that's been down for at least the last 3 years (With a few new sections)

I've never come across these "causeway" dips you mention though, only the surface starting to become uneven from subsidence.

The R33 should be perfectly fine to go through there, I used to take mine through their on the old road all the time and never had an issue (And it was quite low back then!). If you scrub or scrape out, then you're probably already heading for a tree, and as this is a general casual sunday cruise, this will be very relaxed and easy on the car.

Hey Malcolm, they've recently resurfaced the top half of the National Park, and it's nice and smooth up there, the bottom section is still the "old" road that's been down for at least the last 3 years (With a few new sections)

I've never come across these "causeway" dips you mention though, only the surface starting to become uneven from subsidence.

The R33 should be perfectly fine to go through there, I used to take mine through their on the old road all the time and never had an issue (And it was quite low back then!). If you scrub or scrape out, then you're probably already heading for a tree, and as this is a general casual sunday cruise, this will be very relaxed and easy on the car.

... hi matt & thanks for the "special stage" notes ! :P ... maybe im imagining those dips in the road or they were somewhere else !? ... ill try my hardest to show up ... im a freelancer in the film industry & we never know what we're doing till we're doing it ... im working this sunday & will miss out on katoomba so ill be more than peeved if it happens again ... fingers crossed ... see you on the day ... cheers malcolm :rant:

On this cruise we will ALL be sticking to the speed limit.

There will be NO DRIFTING.

NO BURNOUTS

NOTHING ILLEGAL!

We will be the most courteous users on the road, and we will not be doing ANYTHING to cause any disrepute for the club.

... i cannot stress enough how much i agree with & support ALL of the above ...

... as ive mentioned before a 10 year old member of my family was killed in a parking lot while she was walking back from the shops by some moron who was showing off doing a burnout ... he lost control sideways mounted the kerb & the car rolled over & landed on top of her ...

... if youre a dickhead who cant help themselves & has to behave like a moron or if youre not a dickhead but think theres a good chance youll be a moron on this particular day ...

,,, STAY AT HOME ... :P ...

The R33 should be perfectly fine to go through there, I used to take mine through their on the old road all the time and never had an issue (And it was quite low back then!). If you scrub or scrape out, then you're probably already heading for a tree, and as this is a general casual sunday cruise, this will be very relaxed and easy on the car.

I've been through there a few times recently in the 33R and IIRC there *is* one section Malcolm at a river crossing (causeway) where the concrete does dip a little, and if you take it at, say 40km/h, your front splitter may kiss the tarmac (which I've done unfortunately :( ) so when you round the bend and see the causeway over the river, I'd drop it to about 20km/h or less.

Someone who does the road more frequently should be able to confirm / refute

I've been through there a few times recently in the 33R and IIRC there *is* one section Malcolm at a river crossing (causeway) where the concrete does dip a little, and if you take it at, say 40km/h, your front splitter may kiss the tarmac (which I've done unfortunately :down: ) so when you round the bend and see the causeway over the river, I'd drop it to about 20km/h or less.

Someone who does the road more frequently should be able to confirm / refute

If you're tempted to go through there that quick, you're tempting fate to end up in the cause way...

That cause way can get VERY slippery at times. The direction we'll be heading if you carry too much speed onto that causeway it will often end in understeer, and it's only a narrow crossing really!

Just so you all know, I'll be coming UP through the national park before the cruise as well to take note of anything that is out of the ordinary (For the RNP anyway!)

Just so you all know, I'll be coming UP through the national park before the cruise as well to take note of anything that is out of the ordinary (For the RNP anyway!)

Once went through there at night and came across a couple of *deer* standing in the middle of the road. :blush: Was foggy too, crazy stuff.

RNP definitely requires keeping eyes peeled and wits about, even more than usual.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...