Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as no surprise I'm selling my R34, Nothing wrong with it just over it. Looking at mainly cash, But could be keen in some swaps show me what you have got but would like cash my way. Car goes fairly well for what's done to it just needs a tune, fuel pump and some boost wound in to it and would go awsum :)Car is always run on BP Ultimate and gets around 500km to a tank. Engine is very healthy no leaks knocks etc, Had a service about 1,000km's ago. Interior is very clean for it's age just missing the gear boot but they can be bought of ebay for around $40. Now to the bad points of the car. Body - Rear bar has two cracks (pictures attached) BUT! do have a replacement bar in perfect condition just needs to be painted :) Have taken the spoiler off which has left the holes, Spoiler will come with the car it was just taken off cos I thought it was ugly. Drivers side guard has a pin dent and rear passenger side coilover has a knock (but do have replacement shocks)

Anyway here is a bit of a run down of what is done to the car

1998

Manual

Turbo

107,xxx Kms

Had 100,000km Service (belts water pump etc)

All Oils (diff + gbox)

Head machined

New gaskets put in

New timing belt

New water pump

Fresh rad coolant

New thermostat

New rubber grommet around harmonic balancer

Machine rotors

New rocker cover gasket

Rotors Machined

New spark plugs

Mods:

Boost Gauge

Water Temp Gauge

Oil Temp gauge

Red silicone radiator kit

Apexi AX5370 (400hp Ball bearing) turbo

Braided Turbo oil and water lines

Apexi Air filter

Splitfire coilpacks

HSD Coilovers

Hybrid FMIC

8000k HID

Full Set Of Skyline Floor Matts

Fire Extinguisher

Front suspension rack fully rebuilt + serviced

Aftermarket Lower control arms,castor arms, tie rods, tie rod ends

HICAS lock kit

Traction control removed

Catback Exhaust

Nismo Front bar

Nismo side Skirts

Nismo Rear Bar

Nismo Wing (removed but comes with car)

AVS 17x8+17x9 Rims

New Tyres

Pioneer Head Unit

Alpine 6" speakers in front

Alpine 6" Speakers in rear

Spares

SMIC

Air Box

Stock shocks

Full Set Of King Springs

Nismo Cannon

Triple Gauge cluster

Plus Lots More

Anyway looking at $17,500 which I think is fairly cheap considering what is done to it

SDC10501.jpg

SDC10500.jpg

SDC10491.jpg

SDC10487.jpg

SDC10488.jpg

SDC10493.jpg

SDC10494.jpg

SDC10496.jpg

SDC10498.jpg

SDC10489.jpg

SDC10490.jpg

SDC10502.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338924-r34/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Ok this seriously needs to go $15,700 few changes put the standard turbo back on as the apexi has a little to much shaft play for my liking, Also car is getting a service thoe week. Or $15,500 with no sound system

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338924-r34/#findComment-5561627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...