Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently replaced a water pump on a members car and encountered a problem with a nissan genuine N1 water pump.

for those of you who have replaced RB water pumps you will be aware of the single 6mm bolt that is at the top of the pump. This is where the problem arises with this particular pump. the hole for this bolt has been illongated as so the pump can be multi-fitted to different engines, as this bolt hole is in slightly different spots on the RB 20s, 25s, 26s & 30s.

the problem with the wide hole is that it actually protrudes into the water jacket, obviously causing a substantial coolant leak. it is only 1/2mm x 1/2mm gap.

The cure is to hold the pump up as far as you can when mounting it and tighten the water pump bolts in this position. this is enough to close the gap and seal the pump to the block.

its a small simple step follow but will save you having to do the job twice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339104-n1-water-pump-replacement/
Share on other sites

good catch....first time I got caught out by this I had to pull the front off the motor to fix the leak :(

its genuine nissan design which is not like them at all....normally everything fits properly first time

lol i notice about 2 weeks ago, my N1 pump Seeeps a real small amount of coolant out of that bolt once i turn the engine off, its only super mild but i beat its because it wasnt lifted right up when bolted up. Cheers For the heads up mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...