Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yup. federal compliance guys are already onto that - but i'll be taking my pics and doing it myself just in case they get tied up tomorrow.

i'm going to take MY car to the pits tomorrow and see what comments they have to make on MY car.

What do you call full price though, $2,200 or $4,500.

What do you call full price though, $2,200 or $4,500.

was just going to ask the same thing. how much did you pay for compliance?

not saying you've done anything wrong but it might have been wise to discuss these concerns with the compliance shop direct. give them a chance to explain and rectify the problems.

but here's the big corker. the compliance shop who charged me full price to do the compliance work have done NONE of the following tasks - i re-iterate. NOTHING in this list has been done.

oil change

oil filter change

brake fluid change

brake PAD change

child restraints were NOT fitted

mirror glass was NOT changed out to flat glass

catallytic convertors were NOT changed out

headlights were NOT changed out

rear license plate light bulbs weren't even installed.

the worst part is that they provided me with papers saying it's all done..

Below is a break down of basic cost's to comply a Soarer, this is parts only.

WA984 AIR FILTER $28.80

Z383 FUEL FILTER $43.18

Z418 OIL FILTER $10.68

SUPERCAT91006 SOARER CAT CONVERTER $210.00

DRIVERS GLASS SOARER $17.50

SOARER CRA KIT $58.70

SOARER CARBON CANISTER ($100 more if OEM) $125.00

TOYOTA SOARER OWNERS MANUAL $20.00

PLACARD SOARER T/T, ULP STICKER $7.50

HEADLAMP MOD KIT $58.00

BRAKE FLUID $20.00

FREIGHT $60.00

TOTAL IN PARTS $659.36

NIDDREE PLATE FEE $72.80

IMPORT APPROVAL $165.00

Total to date is $897.16 minimum in parts and admin only, no labour costs for service, exhaust, CRA's, head light MOD and a few other things needed. So now you have $600 to $800 in labour costs, fitting CRA's and exhaust in Soarer can be a pain in the arse, service, then there is the cost of tyres.

You are now at $1,500 to $1,700 before they are in the black, meaning what else would you expect but nothing done (which was mentioned many times) when people want to pay $2,000 not $3,500, this would mean the car breezes over the pits like the RX7 I did today.

If you want add brake pads into the equation this will make it even worse or blow it right out of the water bringing in the cost to return to standard and back.

nigel mate I was never once offered the opportunity to pay 3500 I was told 2 grand is what was needed to be paid and that's all there is to it I was never told "yeah we'll do it but do zero labour for it" I was not told anything like that I was guaranteed the work would be carried out and done properly so naturally I expect it to be done.

the worst part is this guy. has been very rude in his dealings. he's a total thug and the worst part is that he knows just how to bend and work his way around laws. I have a good mind to name drop this guy and his business so that people are aware of what i'm being put through as an honest customer.

this guy knows how to operate as close to breaking the law as possible without crossing the line, and i'm willing to bet i'm not the only person he's done this to. for what it's worth he'll hopefully be getting an audit shortly now that dept of transport has seen what he's done.

he may not know it yet. but we're coming for him. and dotars are coming too.

No high mount brake light, no filler neck, none of the changes mentioned, apart from tyres and restraints.. But I paid an extra $500 to have the mods "removed and replaced.." pretty sure this money actually covered not seeing the mods..

nigel mate I was never once offered the opportunity to pay 3500 I was told 2 grand is what was needed to be paid and that's all there is to it I was never told "yeah we'll do it but do zero labour for it" I was not told anything like that I was guaranteed the work would be carried out and done properly so naturally I expect it to be done.

the worst part is this guy. has been very rude in his dealings. he's a total thug and the worst part is that he knows just how to bend and work his way around laws. I have a good mind to name drop this guy and his business so that people are aware of what i'm being put through as an honest customer.

this guy knows how to operate as close to breaking the law as possible without crossing the line, and i'm willing to bet i'm not the only person he's done this to. for what it's worth he'll hopefully be getting an audit shortly now that dept of transport has seen what he's done.

he may not know it yet. but we're coming for him. and dotars are coming too.

He has gone way beyond crossing the line and has broken the law a few times according to 3 different government bodies.

If he pulled that on me I would have a field day.

Below is a break down of basic cost's to comply a Soarer, this is parts only.

WA984 AIR FILTER $28.80

Z383 FUEL FILTER $43.18

Z418 OIL FILTER $10.68

SUPERCAT91006 SOARER CAT CONVERTER $210.00

DRIVERS GLASS SOARER $17.50

SOARER CRA KIT $58.70

SOARER CARBON CANISTER ($100 more if OEM) $125.00

TOYOTA SOARER OWNERS MANUAL $20.00

PLACARD SOARER T/T, ULP STICKER $7.50

HEADLAMP MOD KIT $58.00

BRAKE FLUID $20.00

FREIGHT $60.00

TOTAL IN PARTS $659.36

NIDDREE PLATE FEE $72.80

IMPORT APPROVAL $165.00

Total to date is $897.16 minimum in parts and admin only, no labour costs for service, exhaust, CRA's, head light MOD and a few other things needed. So now you have $600 to $800 in labour costs, fitting CRA's and exhaust in Soarer can be a pain in the arse, service, then there is the cost of tyres.

You are now at $1,500 to $1,700 before they are in the black, meaning what else would you expect but nothing done (which was mentioned many times) when people want to pay $2,000 not $3,500, this would mean the car breezes over the pits like the RX7 I did today.

If you want add brake pads into the equation this will make it even worse or blow it right out of the water bringing in the cost to return to standard and back.

yep, and then add to that the costs incurred in gaining compliance for that model in the first place and they need to be apportioned over the number of soarers they intend to comply. so we are well over the $2,000 in costs just to break even. and that's assuming the car is in perfect condition and that everything goes smoothly and that no non-standard parts need to be removed.

Good example and it's easy to see why at $2,000 it's pretty hard for a workshop to make any money. but as has been mentioned before in a lot of ways they are cutting their own throats.

anyway, not to say you did anything wrong eps. you paid what he asked thus keeping your end of the deal. and he chose not to complete his part properly. it probably would have been good (both for you and for him) to contact him first with your concerns over work not done and give him a chance to rectify it before you went to dotars etc. but that's your choice.

can you pm me the gentleman's name? thanks. :D

  • 3 weeks later...

okay I didn't name the guy out of respect, in the hope that I will be able to sort this myself.. and i'm the customer that is stuck in middle of this, i'd appreciate if you don't mention this sort of thing in public forum because things can get messy very quickly, please no more clues nigel. you know who it is clearly, I know too. let's keep it that way please.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...