Jump to content
SAU Community

Arp Head Stud Torque Setting Rb30

GTR37

By GTR37,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR37 Apprentice

GTR37

Posted
Posted

Hi I couldn't find a thread with a clear answer with the torque setting for Arp head studs in a rb30, only info on the 25 or 26. Just wondering if the settings are the same, from what I can gather its 80nm if you use the molly lube and 100nm if you use engine oil. Is this correct?

more info if needed,

I have the 11mm studs. I got the engine dis assembled but it has been using the studs previously.

Any help appreciated, thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339643-arp-head-stud-torque-setting-rb30/
Share on other sites
Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted
Hi I couldn't find a thread with a clear answer with the torque setting for Arp head studs in a rb30, only info on the 25 or 26. Just wondering if the settings are the same, from what I can gather its 80nm if you use the molly lube and 100nm if you use engine oil. Is this correct?

more info if needed,

I have the 11mm studs. I got the engine dis assembled but it has been using the studs previously.

Any help appreciated, thank you.

72ft/lbs with moly

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

My little instruction sheet says 87ft/lbs, tightened up a third of the torque at a time.

I'm not sure if they used lube or engine oil though.

They are coming out, as the head has the come off because the builders were dicks.

Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted (edited)
My little instruction sheet says 87ft/lbs, tightened up a third of the torque at a time.

I'm not sure if they used lube or engine oil though.

They are coming out, as the head has the come off because the builders were dicks.

always better results using moly lube guys, here is the correct fastner torque setting list.

first column is ARP, second is ARP2000 and third is L-19

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

rod bolts are 45ft/lbs or 6thou stretch.

bolts must be cycled a few times before final torque for best results.

Edited by Supa Steve
GTR37 Apprentice

GTR37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. The question I probably should of asked is will it matter if I get the torque setting wrong slightly. Every where I look has a different answer so I would be guessing not, as long as I was close. The std final stage tension is 88nm, now I know that is using engine oil and the average torque I found for arp with moly lube is 72 - 80. Id hate to get it wrong and have to pull the engine apart again or have it fail.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Check out the latest ARP catalog under the torque setting page and see what it is for an 11mm stud. Ive always done them to 71ft/lbs with moly lube. They could have changed it...

Just looked and it is 72ft/lbs now. Well there you go.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
    • TurboTapin
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What a time to be alive!!
×
×
  • Create New...