Jump to content
SAU Community

S2 C34 Air Intake Pipe Does Anyone Have This One?

shotpointblank
 Share

Recommended Posts

shotpointblank Collaborator

shotpointblank

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

Edited by shotpointblank
chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

shotpointblank Collaborator

shotpointblank

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

yeah man ive seen that... i need to change my one anyway, air intake has a split in it or something makes whistlin sounds on boost... but yeah thanks for the opinion..

Edited by shotpointblank
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted

As long as it is made for a R34 Neo rb25det it will fir and work

The R33 ones are different

I use to use the silicon type.

For the price I would go the alloy one now. Never use to be able to get cheap ones. The only previous ons to the cheap chinese ones use to be made by Apexi at 3 times the price

d1_drifter Community Regular

d1_drifter

Posted
Posted

I had the alloy one. It's not a straight fit...

There is alot of screwing around to make everything fit up properly. Things like the BOV return and oil breather pipe need to be either lengthened or modded. If you still run an AFM, you will also need a smaller pod filter, otherwise it won't fit on the end.

The silicone one is a direct fit and the one to get. $5 intake mod is just as good too.

shotpointblank Collaborator

shotpointblank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the reply guys... yeah gonna get the silicon one i think.. im still using the stock airbox (dont want a pod) but gonna get hks airfilter.. still fit sweet with the box? might just need trimming?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

What sort of problem(s) would you get??

kjb_r33 Experienced

kjb_r33

Posted
Posted
What sort of problem(s) would you get??

Reversion. I get it pretty bad at times, because i have a GCG hi flow. I have minimised it by changing back to a plumb back and using a standard intake pipe (ribs break up the reversion somewhat). It did have a silicon intake but reversion was pretty bad.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

it doesn't. using the ebay alloy one with the BOV return where it is could cause false reading on the AFM, when the BOV released the sudden increase in airflow across the hotwire would cause the ecu to dump a load of fuel in the engine. if your using the stock rubber flex, even with the "$5 Intake Mod", you wont experience this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...