Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

Edited by shotpointblank

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

hey guys got a S2 c34 rb25det neo stagea just wonder if anyone has used one of these air intake pipes?? does it fit?? does it look like the pic?? just doesnt look like the hole will line up??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...=item255d5b278c

also this one looks like it will fit but its silicon anyone used aftermarket silicon one??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item483c7049a7

thanks..

Hi mate check the diy section or search $5 5 min intake mod. I have a spare intake pipe u can use if need be

yeah man ive seen that... i need to change my one anyway, air intake has a split in it or something makes whistlin sounds on boost... but yeah thanks for the opinion..

Edited by shotpointblank

As long as it is made for a R34 Neo rb25det it will fir and work

The R33 ones are different

I use to use the silicon type.

For the price I would go the alloy one now. Never use to be able to get cheap ones. The only previous ons to the cheap chinese ones use to be made by Apexi at 3 times the price

I had the alloy one. It's not a straight fit...

There is alot of screwing around to make everything fit up properly. Things like the BOV return and oil breather pipe need to be either lengthened or modded. If you still run an AFM, you will also need a smaller pod filter, otherwise it won't fit on the end.

The silicone one is a direct fit and the one to get. $5 intake mod is just as good too.

thanks for the reply guys... yeah gonna get the silicon one i think.. im still using the stock airbox (dont want a pod) but gonna get hks airfilter.. still fit sweet with the box? might just need trimming?

The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

The alloy one will give you problems when the bov releases as the air is too close to the airflow sensor, and its on the wrong angle (air will go up the pipe.)

The silicone one looks better but the bend is pretty tight.

What sort of problem(s) would you get??

What sort of problem(s) would you get??

Reversion. I get it pretty bad at times, because i have a GCG hi flow. I have minimised it by changing back to a plumb back and using a standard intake pipe (ribs break up the reversion somewhat). It did have a silicon intake but reversion was pretty bad.

I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

I am using the stock S1 silicone inlet pipe with the 5 min. fix. My BOV is in the hot side just out of the turbo and vents back into the stock place in the inlet. How does that fit with the "reversion" syndrome?

it doesn't. using the ebay alloy one with the BOV return where it is could cause false reading on the AFM, when the BOV released the sudden increase in airflow across the hotwire would cause the ecu to dump a load of fuel in the engine. if your using the stock rubber flex, even with the "$5 Intake Mod", you wont experience this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...