Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just have to go a bit quicker than 80 and getsome one to watch the rack ends. thats when i get another turbo. and get licence back. anyone know of any big turbo kits available without the fitment fuss of a new exhaust manifold or not wortha fortune.

cheers dave

2 years ago i was having major problems with my hicas..... noone could figure out what was happening not the mechanics... not the nissan hicas test software not nothing.... the light always used to come on when doing low speeds...

the reason why it was coming on was because small fragments from the broken horn button had found they're way into the path of the steering angle sensor. I could make the hicas light come on when doing U turns, when going around corners really on cue....

When taking these corners these bits of plastic moved infront of the sensor blocking the information the sensor need to adjust the rear wheels so hence the light came.

question: If hicas only works at speeds above 80km/h why was my light coming on? I wasnt taking these corners/ u turns at 80km and above...... If it does only work 80 and above there would be no need for the sensor to try and read the angle of my steering wheel.

my conclusion: IT OPERATES BELOW 80km/h

once I found the bits of plastic and removed them I never had a problem again. Everything else was working fine as the entire car was tested using a hicas/ nissan computer in bayswater.

It doesn't come on at low speed to help you park???

and no I dont park at 35-40kmp/h.

I am speaking from personal experience not from what I have read.

2 years ago i was having major problems with my hicas..... noone could figure out what was happening not the mechanics... not the nissan hicas test software not nothing.... the light always used to come on when doing low speeds...

the reason why it was coming on was because small fragments from the broken horn button had found they're way into the path of the steering angle sensor. I could make the hicas light come on when doing U turns, when going around corners really on cue....

When taking these corners these bits of plastic moved infront of the sensor blocking the information the sensor need to adjust the rear wheels so hence the light came.    

question: If hicas only works at speeds above 80km/h why was my light coming on? I wasnt taking these corners/ u turns at 80km and above...... If it does only work 80 and above there would be no need for the sensor to try and read the angle of my steering wheel.  

my conclusion: IT OPERATES BELOW 80km/h

once I found the bits of plastic and removed them I never had a problem again.  Everything else was working fine as the entire car was tested using a hicas/ nissan computer in bayswater.

and no I dont park at 35-40kmp/h.

I am speaking from personal experience not from what I have read.

The light does not indicate that the HICAS system is operating, only that there is some malfunction. In your case, from a sensor malfunction.

the only fault was that the steering angle sensor couldnt communicate with the angle of my wheel....

but why should it be doing this if i wasnt going above 80km/h..... there was no major fault as it was plugged into hiocas test equipment.

I have HICAS on my R31 GTS-R.

It definately works at low sped as I tested with the car stationary. Parked next to a wall and chocked a thin piece of wood to just sit there between the tyre and wall. Turn the wheel and it fell down. About the 60 or 80 km/h thing I was told that the wheels turn in the opposite direction to low speeds. Mine turned the same way the fronts did when stationary but at higher speeds could not tell.

why should an ABS light come on all the time when the ABS module fails....after all the ABS does work all the time does it?

It is a warning light (like all the others in the dash). It is not an "ABS in use" light.

It's not like the "slip" light fitted to some.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...