Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjustable Regulator Query

mawzy

By mawzy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
Posted

Hi all. Just after peoples opinions here. Personally not a fan of them, but the reason I'm looking into it is to lower my fuel pressure. I have an in cabin gauge, with factory pump, injectors and tune, runs at 42psi on idle. A while ago I set my bosch 044 up intank and it was running 56psi at idle. I changed back to factory pump for the mean time. Wanted to sort some other issues parts etc. Now I'm gearing up to put pump back in along with some 600cc inj, but was thinking i mite need to put a reugulator in the mix to get pressure back down to 42mark. I'm looking at getting a nismo regulator, mostly for the ease of installation, and not having a remote mounted one. Now should i be worrying about doing this or, simply run at the 56psi? thanks for any input help guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340166-adjustable-regulator-query/
Share on other sites
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
Hi all. Just after peoples opinions here. Personally not a fan of them, but the reason I'm looking into it is to lower my fuel pressure. I have an in cabin gauge, with factory pump, injectors and tune, runs at 42psi on idle. A while ago I set my bosch 044 up intank and it was running 56psi at idle. I changed back to factory pump for the mean time. Wanted to sort some other issues parts etc. Now I'm gearing up to put pump back in along with some 600cc inj, but was thinking i mite need to put a reugulator in the mix to get pressure back down to 42mark. I'm looking at getting a nismo regulator, mostly for the ease of installation, and not having a remote mounted one. Now should i be worrying about doing this or, simply run at the 56psi? thanks for any input help guys.

The 044 is overloading the return flow rate of the std regualtor the problem with this is that you will have varying fuel pressure under light load. THis is about the only time I would recommend using an aftermarket item - not sure if the nismo's have that much more return flow rate then the factory item, a sard will work fine tryed and tested.

mawzy Enthusiast

mawzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for that guys. i do have another factory regulator there so will test that and pump again. So it's likely a regulator fault, but is it odd that it only shows as a problem with the bosch pump? I have no issues with factory setup in there. or is it just the extra flow/pressure that causing the greif? Also if the other reg doesn't resolve my issue, people recomend not buying a nismo regulator? Thanks

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

could be opening far enough for the standard pump but jams before opening far enough to hold 42psi with the 044 as it flows a lot more than the stocker.

not sure bout the nismos but cant see it having any trouble. if you do go an aftermarket reg make sure its a quality one like nismo, tomei etc. i have a tomei reg and it works perfecly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...