Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after some new brake rotors for my 260RS Stagea. I want to do track days but I am worried about cross drilled brakes being "weaker" than slotted rotors and therefore warping under extreme heat conditions.

Am I being to worried and under informed here?

I can only get cross drilled (apparently) for the front so will have to run slotted on the rears. Will this be an issue?

Also can someone clear up... does this car have an R33 or R34 drivetrain.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340629-cross-drilled-verses-slotted/
Share on other sites

I can only get cross drilled (apparently) for the front so will have to run slotted on the rears. Will this be an issue?

Thanks!

How come you can only get cross drilled for the front?

There's no problem tho' to run cross drilled at the front and slots at the rear.

Cons:

Under heat, cross drilled can form blue heat patches and then a bit of cracking.

Even slots that go right up to the edge of the rotor can crack too. DBA found this out soon enough

Pros:

Slots that stay within the edges are desirable whether they be straight or fish-hook

Dimpled rotors are fine (as in RDA)

Curved vanes within the ventilation space are desirable

The cross drilled that came on my car cracked at the track, as did DBA4000s with the retarded slot design....

Very surprised you cant get slotted for the fronts - I would have guessed that your RS would have had GTR brakes or similar. The 33 and 34 GTRs had the same sized rotors. Do you have brembo calipers?

Even slots that go right up to the edge of the rotor can crack too. DBA found this out soon enough

My guess is that its more that the slot is almost perpendicular to the edge, rather that the fact that it runs right to the edge (but agreed that is also undesirable)

The RDA dimpled/slotted/gold ones run the slot all the way to the edge, but the slot is the conventional 45 degrees or so to the edge. They've been ok for me, unlike the DBA4000s.

The cross drilled that came on my car cracked at the track, as did DBA4000s with the retarded slot design....

Very surprised you cant get slotted for the fronts - I would have guessed that your RS would have had GTR brakes or similar. The 33 and 34 GTRs had the same sized rotors. Do you have brembo calipers?

You can get slotted alround. But can not get cross drilled for the rears, only the fronts.

the vehicle has Brembo brakes alround.

My guess is that its more that the slot is almost perpendicular to the edge, rather that the fact that it runs right to the edge (but agreed that is also undesirable)

The RDA dimpled/slotted/gold ones run the slot all the way to the edge, but the slot is the conventional 45 degrees or so to the edge. They've been ok for me, unlike the DBA4000s.

shit.. just bought slotted DBA4000s

are they really that bad?

^^^ If the ends of the slots are away from the perimeter of the rotor, it's all ok.

If your slots do meet the edge of the rotor at something like a 45 degree angle, you just need to watch them.

But there have been some batches of DBA 4000s with 5-10mm length slots meeting with the edge and perpendicular to the edge that have been notorious for cracking (via high heat > expansion > contraction).

When I cut glass (in leadlighting), I must start the cut right from the edge/perimeter > the glass is much more easy to break.

Another example is that medicinal tablets are meant to be 'scored' right up to the edges, to facilitate breaking cleanly - otherwise they're hard to snap.

Therefore, heat-cracking on cross drilled rotors starts at the extreme edge of the hole - which is the weakest point.

shit.. just bought slotted DBA4000s

are they really that bad?

They were pretty bad - Here is the thread. The bottom of the third page shows my ones, they don't have the slot all the way to the edge (it stops just short). I dont know if they've updated the design since then. If you're not tracking it it will be fine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...