Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...

i am trying to off load my S1 R33 which i wrote off a few years back..

it has had the interior pulled out and most of the loom pulled back into the cab. was in the process of stripping it for parts etc but it has become a project thats taking far to long to finish and i need the space...

engine with about 115 000 or so K's (would need to check the odometer) on the clock. good strong motor. auto gear box ( :( ) serviced about 3 mths before accident.

motor has only had 12psi pumped through it.

factory sunroof.

all but driver side glass in the vehicle. had to replace my drivers door glass thanks to jerk thieves.

looking for $3200 ono you take it away.... make an offer i am flexible on this.

this would be great as to replace your motor if it has died or if your doing a r32 rb20/vl commodore conversion.. or what ever else you wanted to put it in..

if you are interested you can PM me or email me at [email protected] or sms me on 0402945546.

i will try and get a couple of pics organised.. but if you'd like to come see it we can organise a time..

Edited by dazman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Why is it a write off (what is the damage/cause)?

well, all four corners got a visit from the dent fairy.... and on later inspection after thinking i might be able to replace the panels, i discovered buckles in the roof above both A pillars..... hitting the parkway wall at 100 clicks is never really that good for anything... lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5515778
Share on other sites

hey guys...

sorry haven't got the pics organized yet.. been a stupid busy weekend...

will try and get a couple organized asap though...

currently it is in my garage in phillip.. but will have to move it shortly to weston area if i can't sell it soon..

PRICE DROP $3000 ono.... as said before, make an offer... :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5525738
Share on other sites

I was wandering if it has, and if I could perhaps get the pair of original (large rectangular) rear speaker covers from the parcel shelf? Mines a series 1.5, but I doubt the speaker covers changed between S1 and S2?

unfortunatelly mate thats something she didn't come with when i got her... i know what yu mean as my one atm has them...

so sorry to have to dissapoint....... :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5537772
Share on other sites

Bugger. Thanks any way. I would like to hide (and protect) the speakers I installed, and their design doesn't come with a proper speaker cover, just a fancy bit of plastic that looks nice, protects the speaker cone a bit, but doesn't really keep light off or disguise them. I'll keep searching. Hoping somebody who upgraded their stereo decides they are willing to part with em.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5537779
Share on other sites

Other parts I was looking for

Rear wing brake light (stock square wing), drivers door control panel cover (mines been spray painted and has lotta damage), u know the handles on the roof in the back seat, well back left seat, right hand side of that handle, need the cover the goes over the screws.

Any luck on these parts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341747-s1-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5542303
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...