Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Boost Controller Install Question

PewPew

By PewPew,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. Just got around to installing my HDi EBC-R. I found a hole through the firewall for the hoses and cables and tee'd the boost line from the unit onto a hose coming off the intake manifold, but I'm a bit confused as to one of the solenoid connections.

The instructions say one end is to be connected to the wastegate actuator and the other end to the turbo. I found the actuator hose fine, but just not quite sure which hose comes off the turbocharger. I did some research and found some people connect it to the intercooler piping instead? Would that be alright for this case? I'm running the stock SMIC on an R34 GTT. Also, does anyone know what the top hose on the standard solenoid goes to? I traced it to a gold pipe with a bend in it located under the intercooler piping but not sure as to what it actually is/does.

At the moment, the stock solenoid looks like so with 2 hoses coming out, one of them tee'd:

_____

l l________

l _________ ???

l l

l l wastegate actuator

l l ________l l_____

stock solenoid l _______________ intercooler

l l

l l

l l

___l l___

So I guess my question is, instead of connecting the new solenoid to the turbocharger, would it be okay to connect it to the intercooler piping like some people have in other boost controller install guides? And also, what would I do with the top hose coming out of the stock solenoid? Block it off? Any help would be greatly appreciated! :P

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

Block off everything on the stock boost solenoid. Unplugging it might bring up an error code though so I wont tell you to unplug it, you can experiment with that lol.

If you have 1 side of the ebc solenoid hooked up to the actuator thats fine. Other side needs a pressure source, this can be off the compressor housing (u dont have one so pass...) you should have a nipple comming off an intercooler pipe or worst case get a T piece and T off the big vacuum line that goes to ur carbon canister and make that go straight to the solenoid on the port that requres a pressure source. There should be a pressure source somewhere in that area though.

Heres a pic of a greddy profec b spec 2 install diagram, will be same principle.

EBC%20Hose%20Install.JPG

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...