Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Boost Controller Install Question

PewPew

By PewPew,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. Just got around to installing my HDi EBC-R. I found a hole through the firewall for the hoses and cables and tee'd the boost line from the unit onto a hose coming off the intake manifold, but I'm a bit confused as to one of the solenoid connections.

The instructions say one end is to be connected to the wastegate actuator and the other end to the turbo. I found the actuator hose fine, but just not quite sure which hose comes off the turbocharger. I did some research and found some people connect it to the intercooler piping instead? Would that be alright for this case? I'm running the stock SMIC on an R34 GTT. Also, does anyone know what the top hose on the standard solenoid goes to? I traced it to a gold pipe with a bend in it located under the intercooler piping but not sure as to what it actually is/does.

At the moment, the stock solenoid looks like so with 2 hoses coming out, one of them tee'd:

_____

l l________

l _________ ???

l l

l l wastegate actuator

l l ________l l_____

stock solenoid l _______________ intercooler

l l

l l

l l

___l l___

So I guess my question is, instead of connecting the new solenoid to the turbocharger, would it be okay to connect it to the intercooler piping like some people have in other boost controller install guides? And also, what would I do with the top hose coming out of the stock solenoid? Block it off? Any help would be greatly appreciated! :P

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

Block off everything on the stock boost solenoid. Unplugging it might bring up an error code though so I wont tell you to unplug it, you can experiment with that lol.

If you have 1 side of the ebc solenoid hooked up to the actuator thats fine. Other side needs a pressure source, this can be off the compressor housing (u dont have one so pass...) you should have a nipple comming off an intercooler pipe or worst case get a T piece and T off the big vacuum line that goes to ur carbon canister and make that go straight to the solenoid on the port that requres a pressure source. There should be a pressure source somewhere in that area though.

Heres a pic of a greddy profec b spec 2 install diagram, will be same principle.

EBC%20Hose%20Install.JPG

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...