Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt Options

R32 TT

By R32 TT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys. I've just tried a new Gates Belt from Just Jap (Gates HSN 150T) but it doesn't fit. I have a Gates 152T but in the NEO compound (the 'weakest' of the Gates options) and this "just" fits - but I am concerned about getting the best material I can for the belt. Obviously don't want a failure.

Looking at the guide and doing searches brings up the Dayco 94407 belt. This is also 152T, 25mm wide. This says it is Chloroprene compound - so not sure how this compares in strength/temp to the Gates Neo. Does anyone know?

Then I found another Dayco belt, 94843. This appears to be 153T, 25mm wide and made of the HSN compound, which as far as I can make out is the 'best' compound. I've seen a few threads about people having a little trouble fitting belts at 150/152T, so maybe this 153T belt could be the ticket? It is certainly more expensive than the 94407, so hopefully this indicates it is the superior belt..

Any comments on this one? Anyone know their belt 'compounds' or suggest an even better belt?

Here's a couple of links on the two Dayco Belts:

Dayco 94407

Dayco 94843

Edited by R32 TT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341873-timing-belt-options/
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

I know that this is a little old but thought I'd at least give a quick reply..

NEO = Neoprene which is also known as Polychloroprene.

The different types of rubber compounds the belts are made of give the belts different temperature resistance ratings as well as oil resistances. You can also Nitrile, and HSN (Highly Saturated Nitrile). I would sat that you would want to at least match whatever the material of the standard T1040 timing belt is.

There's a number of ways to do the conversion so it all depends on the method you use as to which belt/compound option you have. I think that there were approx 5-6 belts that were possible to use for this. I'm just going off what someone else told me so someone here might be able to correct me on that.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

the 150t belt from gates is for 2 tensioners in the standard locations, down the bottom next to each other.

the 152t belt needs the tensioner relocated as per the 30det guide. not sure bout the other belts

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Whoops! Sorry guys, pretty average of me to post a question and then not reply...

Ok, Just trying to go back through my notes on what I found out back at the time.

Bottom line is, as JohnnoHR31 points out, the JustJap belt is for the two tensioners at the lower position. I should have known this from the start as I have read this before - but somehow I just read "suits RB26/30" and bought it. I will add though that the guys from JustJap were very good about it and happily refunded me the dollars not only for the belt, but also for freight - which I fully expected to have to pay for. Great service, thanks guys.

The belt they supply is (from memory) a Gates T306. This is 150 teeth x 23mm wide. It is in the HSN compound (which as FRY_33 points out) is the strongest, most heat/oil resistant compound.

For my application, with the higher mounted tensioner, I needed a 152T as per the guide. In fact for me (and some others) even this is a tad short. I used a 153T and it is the full 25mm wide and in the HSN compound. The part number for that is a Gates T317. The 152T version is a Gates T291, also HSN, also 25mm wide.

So bottom line is, when building one of these motors, you obviously want to put the strongest most reliable belt you can find on. Getting a 25mm wide is what you want, and getting an HSN Compound is 'better' than the Chloroprene compound. Both Gates and Dayco offer belts in both types of compounds - so be aware that you should check this out as well as the number of teeth/pitch etc. And for those of you struggling to make a 152T belt fit - there is a 153T !

Cheers

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...