Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

not sure if this is the best place to post this question, but im currently looking at buying an 1999 R34 GTR and im just wondering what the common problems are and what i should be be looking out for or get looked at. Ill be doing a compression test on the motor, the GTR im looking at has 77,000K's on it at the moment

The one im looking at has very minimal modifications:

Greddy Coilovers

Pedders Camber Kit

Trust intercooler kit and Air filter

NISMO gauge cluster

Cat back exhaust

Here are some pics.

post-57129-1288572577_thumb.jpg

post-57129-1288572621_thumb.jpg

post-57129-1288572661_thumb.jpg

any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Regards,

Dom

Edited by K33P UP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342584-what-am-i-looking-for/
Share on other sites

Congratulations if it's a goodie Dom.

Now, assuming the compression test is done on this standard GT-R,

* is there any auction paperwork?

* are there Japanese logs? service history?

* check underneath where it's regularly parked to see if there is any oil leak from the front of the block and/or leak from the front crank seal > oil pump OK

* get the VIN# and get feedback from VINS Fasted from "General Automotive" thread here at SAU > Japanese history and where it was based > no rust

* check physically for rust yourself, although rust is common below the rear bootlid tail-light where water sits

* check for damage to rails, suspension, arms, running gear, and see if both doors open without dropping a few mm, wheel well for damage/rust

* look at radiator fluid > dirty stuff is rotten Japanese water or head gasket

* look at engine oil

* when you take it out for an extended run, see if there is any miss or hesitation on boost > coilpacks/plugs/AFM/ignitor OK

Then check it over as you would with any 'new' second hand car.

Hopefully 155+ across each cylinder, but all should be about even.

Mine is a standard GT-R as well > but it looks like a V-Spec II now.

I've only had to replace the oil pump (not a small job) & coilpacks beyond maintenance items.

im located on the Gold Coast, the car is located on the Sunshine Coast. Yeah he said the car has done 10,000 more K's than the nismo dash tells you.

Make sure he has something to back that claim up then.

VCHECK, REVS and fasted VIN are all good, so it's looking more promising for me to buy this car aslong as it passes inspection center

Also can someone please tell me where i can find the Engine number so it saves me time digging around his engine bay when i go look at the car? lol

Cheers.

Dom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...