Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this R33 in August last year and it was already in immaculate condition inside and outside with no body kit or any of that rubbish, and already had a 35R Tial 44mm gate, Plazmaman inlet, Power FC, AVCR, Nismo 740cc injectors, Bosch 040 pump, and a few other goodies and had previously made 350hp on 16psi. It looked like this when I got it.

n78958807414333885878.jpg

I took it to the drags a few times but due to the clutch I couldn't get it to launch properly, so my best time was a 12.9 @ 115mph, then I put an Xtreme button in it and straight away ran a 12.6, still with room for improvement in the 60ft time.

Anyway about 6 months ago a knock developed in the front of the motor which turned out to be the harmonic balancer hitting against the lower timing cover. Both keyways were flogged out and there appears to be a bash mark on the front of the balancer which looks like it's been hit with a hammer at some stage. Very nice.

img1581y.jpg

img1582ad.jpg

img1583x.jpg

img1586w.jpg

I figured it was pointless going through the whole process of pulling the motor out just to put the same stock motor back in, so I got on the phone to RIPS and had them build me a hot motor RB25/30 combo.

I'm planning on maxing out the 35R in an attempt to get around 550hp at the treads but I'm not sure if it'll make it past 500hp, and if/when it expires I'll put a Borg Warner S372 on with 2-step.

Aside from the motor I added an 044 and surge tank, and decided to give Cryo a shot, see if it works or not. If it doesn't it's not big deal, it was cheap as. I have almost everything I need to get the motor in, just need to order a clutch. I figure an NPC twin plate will handle anything I can throw at it.

68352441242751125692956.jpg

This is just a photo of the car before it came off the road. The D1Rs are for sale and are in perfect condition with near new front tyres and brand new rear tyres for $1800 and are +32 and +37 so are perfect for a street car, the only time the tyres ever scrubbed was when I installed camber bars in the rear so the guards had to be rolled then.

96210639.jpg

I am planning on ditching the GTR wing at some stage also, will most likely put the standard box-type wing on if I can find one, otherwise it'll have to be a lip spoiler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342586-rips-rb2530-build-up/
Share on other sites

Hey mate mine has a few extra things like extra balancing for higher RPM, high capacity sump and wide oil drive, then a few other bits on top. The RIPS standard internal engines are still good for 600hp. In fact they run a standard internal engine on a 500 odd hp drift car in NZ. Prices are available from RIPS, unless you go for a stock internal motor they're all different prices. Rob is great to deal with, and he responds to emails almost immediately if you don't have time to speak over the phone!

I said prices are available from RIPS :) I'm not telling everything that's in it, that's a secret, so it doesn't really matter how much it cost because unless you get a stock one or one of the mildly upgraded packages they don't all cost the same!

I have no idea how much the stock rebuilds go for.

All I know is I just want to get some powerskids happening...

Edited by josh.s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...