Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I was meaning to do an R33 non turbo speeod conversion to a turbo one

Mainly due to the lower km's my car has

I ended up buying one and tried putting it in yesterday

All went well but didnt get a chance to drive it

Today i took it for a drive but to my surprise the speedo was out of wack

It was showing roughly double the speed on the speedo than what i was going

my fuel, rpm, oil temp etc were all fine but the speed is out :P

Would this be caused by the speed sender on my gearbox being different to a turbo one?? How could it be a huge amount out? Aren't the speedo's the same? i also bought a series 1 dash which is the same as my car

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342896-r33-speedo-difference/
Share on other sites

more then likely the sending unit on a non turbo is picking up the signal at a slower pace.

if you put a occiloscope / digital multimeter on the sender wires or OBD tool you can see if the on off pulse is the same as a Non turbo.

check the shop manual to see if it matches, doubt it

check the sender part numbers , bet there different ????

hope that helps. does that mean you can drive twice as fast legally..hahahaha

I'm sure there is a way to fix without spending a heap of dosh

Edited by sapphiregraphics

I have a RB25DET speedo sender here. $30.

Ive got the RB25 box in my R32, but using a mechanical speedo sender, mine is out at an increasing rate.

Indicated 60kmh = 56kmh GPS

Indicated 110kmh = 100kmh GPS

My speedo and GPS used to be within 1kmh of each other.

  • 1 month later...

I have a RB25DET speedo sender here. $30.

Ive got the RB25 box in my R32, but using a mechanical speedo sender, mine is out at an increasing rate.

Indicated 60kmh = 56kmh GPS

Indicated 110kmh = 100kmh GPS.

Hi , I was driving towards a police speed check station at 60kmh on speedo but the police checker read 56kmh also at highway speeds I have been overtaken by grannies

My speedo and GPS used to be within 1kmh of each other.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...