Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooked 300ZX question, Maybe you guys can help?

ix9

By ix9,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

ice180 Mentor

ice180

Posted
Posted

zeds are so heavy complex and the short wheelbase is ansty in the wet.. hicas always fail, so do electrics and most have been stacked sometime... engine is a bitch to work on also.. they are as cheap as chips in Japan now... my 180 did a 12.3 at Heathcote with me backing off halfway shows how heavy the zeds are.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Guest TTZ32

Guest TTZ32

Posted
Posted

LOL:lol: Backed off halfway and still ran 12.3!!!!! Dude you must have a 10 second 180SX! Now thats a timeslip I bet we don't see:lol:

You've had a lot of experience with Zed's hey? or read a lot of magazines more likely:D

A two seater Zed has a 2450mm wheelbase and a 2+2 is 2570mm,

I wouldn't think a 180SX or Skyline is much longer than that, but I'm no expert, and I don't pretend to be either:)

My Zed must be a little unusual, not having any electrical failures or HICAS problems

ice180 Mentor

ice180

Posted
Posted

yes had one for a while I know it was bad but almost the biggest pile of junk I have owned.. 1.7 60 foot, at 100mph I'll post the timeslip... it was running slicks and has 300kw at the rears... Front left wheel bearing was dodgy and car kept pulling to the left under hard acceleration....

Gradenko Mentor

Gradenko

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ice180

my 180 did a 12.3 at Heathcote with me backing off halfway shows how heavy the zeds are.

Doesn't really show how heavy Z's are, just shows how much power you make.

What we're impressed with here isn't out right ET, but how little it takes to reach that. I've done a little searching and seems it isn't uncommon for a stock turboed, stock injectored, stock intercooled Z's to run mid 12s (or less). I guess being able to run over 1.1bar without the exhaust wheel flying off helps :D I think we all know what the limits of stock sr20 bolt ons are in comparison...

Guest TTZ32

Guest TTZ32

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by JiMiH

Is it true that 300zx's are very hard to work on and if anything goes wrong then big bux to fix?

Coz otherwise I reckon they are sweet looking cars :uh-huh:

It's all relative.....the Zed is fairly complex, and space is tight, but its really not that bad, I've got three in my garage at the moment, one with engine and box out and in pieces.

Hasn't been one instance yet where I have had trouble working on them.

For instance, I can get an auto box out in around an hour no problems :(

Parts are plentiful and quite cheap for 2nd hand bits, if you have to pay a mechanic, then obviously labour is expensive. Virtually all mechanics are completely overwhelmed when they pop the bonnet, and convince themselves it's too hard before they start.

Aside from the engine, all the other mechanicals are pretty much the same as all other turbo Nissans. And as you guy's know, very tough:)

The main problem is when people foolishly buy one in poor condition, have a few things go wrong, then spout off to all and sundry that the Zed is crap:( If they bothered to look at the vehicle prior to handing over the loot they wouldn't have a problem, but that applies to any car. If you bought a blue car and it crapped out, would that mean all blue cars are crap?:)

My personal opinion is that the Zed is the best value for money of any equivalent car. I like Skylines too, so don't linch me:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...