Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ihey all,

 i have a hks super dragger cannon on my skyline its a huge cannon but my car isnt loud at all, i do have a 3.5" cat back system fitted.... will my car be louder if i use a smaller cannon will my car be louder?

does this cannon offer better performance?

cheers,

rb

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/
Share on other sites

bump?

Hi not really

what front pipe do you have? that does make a difference.

however the system you want is something like Amuse ti, or blitz nur spec if you want loud

both are opposite ends of the scale in terms of cost

if we can help just pm me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5536000
Share on other sites

Does it have a dump and front pipe along with a high flow cat?

If not, please see the below before chopping or changing your existing cat back :devil:

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5536300
Share on other sites

+1

it will get a bit louder once you change the dump and cat

i always thought super draggers are loudish... complete the system first and then decide wether you'd want it to be any louder

the exhaust i have on sale was quiet as on my mate's car with stock cat and aftermarket dump, but loud on mine with metal cat, dump, and hiflow turbo

Edited by chiksluvit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5536777
Share on other sites

is it that hard to believe that having a massive restriction at the start of your exhaust like a stock front and dump pipe compared to the rest of the exhaust is the reason it's quiet?

It will make less power but noise level won't change, mufflers are a restriction but they decrease noise, small pipes will change the noise ever so slightly but they are no muffler.

Try putting a straight through 1" exhaust on your car, it will still be very loud.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5536801
Share on other sites

does anyone else have a super dragger cannon on there liner?

if your looking at a noisy catback go for the hks hi-power, running one on my 33 and its well above legal limit if your willing to take the risk

best regards chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5539023
Share on other sites

changing from stock dump/front and cat to a 3" or watever wont increase the sound much, i know this from doing it.

if you just have a hotdog in the center and cannon on the back, the only thing you can do is get a new cannon, the hks super dragger is quiet from my understanding.

changing the hotdog to a straight pipe will make the car deeper and dronier, hotdogs give it a good note, not quieten it.

if you want it louder get a new cannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5539673
Share on other sites

Jasma isn't a brand, it is a standard.

If you want it loud it doesn't matter, get the muffler that looks the best, they are all straight through and won't do much muffling.

The ones in the middle are the ones that really matter as they usually aren't straight through and will determine how loud the car is, or if you want to enjoy the RB rumble just ignore the middle muffler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5539817
Share on other sites

xforce do a really deep note on idle, they sound ok when flooring it, i personaly love genie cannons, but they dont make them anymore unfortunatly

jasma rated cannons will be quieter, i changed my jasma one to an xforce one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343302-hks-exhaust/#findComment-5540088
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...