Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I need some help here. I recenly bought a skyline 93 GTST. I just brought my car to Autobahn today and they list the problem as below which is the most expensive things---Suspension and Brake:

Oil Leak from motor cost $95 just to wash the motor and further cost of changes.

Both outer tie rod ends boots split---$330

Front Catsre Arm Bushes split---$500

Rear Shocks leaking, replace---$535

Brake Pad and Rotor Change---$500

Its like costing me more than $2000 (as i still haven't mentioned others)

My Question is

Does outer tie rod ends boots, Front Catsre Arm bushes and Rear shocks have to be changed? If i don't change, is that still ok to run?? As far as i know it will just affect the wheel alignment and a bit uncomfortable.

Also, Is that worth to pay $90 just to wash the engine and inspect where the oil leak is??? Be Honest, Its not really that serious leaking, so is that common in most of the skyline??

The Brake pad and rotor is ok for me to change as it is the common things...

Please help me...i just want to know is that worth to change the whole suspension system or its ok for me to run normally on the road.

Thankyou thankyou thankyou!!!!!

Boots split (replace at some stage so dirt and grime don't chew out seals and bearings )

Caster arm bushes split ( will affect alignment as it get worse)

Engin bay ( buy some degreser and a weed sprayer from buntings cleans up nice ) probably just your rocket cover gasket

Shocks learning ( replace asap as this will affect traction and can be dangerous !!!)

Thx a lot mate. It is so useful to me. Just the cost is a bit too expensive ($1600 just the suspension parts), I still can drive normally if i don't change the suspension right? I mean the diff will be only a bit hard to turn and control the wheel..but it won't make my car go diff direction worst to worst, is that true???LOL :devil:

Boots split (replace at some stage so dirt and grime don't chew out seals and bearings )

Caster arm bushes split ( will affect alignment as it get worse)

Engin bay ( buy some degreser and a weed sprayer from buntings cleans up nice ) probably just your rocket cover gasket

Shocks learning ( replace asap as this will affect traction and can be dangerous !!!)

If it were me I would look at the tutorial section and do it my self as it will save money . As long as your oil isn't running out weekly I wouldnt worrie for now ! Your leaking shock and caster arm bush would be the first thing I replace asap then fix the leak in the Engin bay and for now just cover the split in your tie rod end boots with gaffa untill you can find some in good nick at the wreckers . I wouldn't advise driving with split caster bushes and leaking shock for long as I said they will only get worse .

Give your Engine bay a good clean with truck degreaser and find out if that leak is bad or not !!!

What a rip bro, I bet you $10 that oil leak is your rear main seal. That's a gearbox-out job. You should replace your shocks if they really are leaking, and replace those bushes, they will greatly improve your handling and ride. It's pretty easy to do as well...

I'd take your car elsewhere as it sounds like your getting ripped.

Tie rod end boots, provided the tie rod end isn't worn you should just be able to fit new boots (alot less than $330), seems like they've quoted you for new tie rod ends? Did they say if they were actually worn?

Front caster rod bushes split, $500? :devil: I did mine recently, the bush kit was $90 trade, maybe $120 retail? Takes half an hour to undo the bolt and two nuts, press out the old bushes (unless it has after-market ones already), fit the new ones and refit the rods to the car.

Rear shocks leaking, get it done. $535 to remove the back seat, shocks, compress and remove the springs and change the shocks over, including parts and labor is reasonable, provided they're fitting a good shock.

Brake pad and rotor change $500? Standard rotors and pads or?

Then a wheel alignment as is always required with suspension/steering work.

Its a big help for me. Thx a lot. The tie rod end boots is quoted as a new one. They said it is split. The Front caster rod bushes..can you tell me what equipment do i need to fix it by myself?? They put the wheel nuts real hard...I kw all the equipment won't be cheap...i mean at least cost me $300 to buy the set. But i just can't unscrew the nuts with a manual spanner.haha,maybe need a electronic one. The Rear Shocks....that's the hard bit...I don't think i can handle this part as it has many steps. The Brake is the standard one as they said...If i can unscrew the wheel, I would rather do it myself as well~

I'd take your car elsewhere as it sounds like your getting ripped.

Tie rod end boots, provided the tie rod end isn't worn you should just be able to fit new boots (alot less than $330), seems like they've quoted you for new tie rod ends? Did they say if they were actually worn?

Front caster rod bushes split, $500? :devil: I did mine recently, the bush kit was $90 trade, maybe $120 retail? Takes half an hour to undo the bolt and two nuts, press out the old bushes (unless it has after-market ones already), fit the new ones and refit the rods to the car.

Rear shocks leaking, get it done. $535 to remove the back seat, shocks, compress and remove the springs and change the shocks over, including parts and labor is reasonable, provided they're fitting a good shock.

Brake pad and rotor change $500? Standard rotors and pads or?

Then a wheel alignment as is always required with suspension/steering work.

If your unsure about any part of it, don't do it. Best bet is to find someone from here in your area with a bit of mechanical knowledge and tools, better off paying them a couple hundred for their time to do the work than have something go wrong. Or take your car to another shop and get it re-quoted (preferably somewhere that regularly works on imports) to see if they can save you a few dollars.

Just get a big long fat torque shifter to break those nuts... I'm pretty scrawny and I managed to break locking wheel lugs that some retard used an impact gun on. All you need is a socket set really. Rear shocks are piss easy btw, not sure what you have to take out in a 33 to get access to strut bolts but I just needed to take off most of the interior boot trims. That's 2 bolts there, and undo another bolt at the bottom of the shock and it just slides out!

Thx for all you guys supporting~I think i will sell it at last. I mean after I pay for 2k in my 93 Skyline, I don't mind, but other parts may start having problem as it is a 93 model and every parts get wear. Do you guys pay high maintainance fee on Skyline series 1 model???

If your unsure about any part of it, don't do it. Best bet is to find someone from here in your area with a bit of mechanical knowledge and tools, better off paying them a couple hundred for their time to do the work than have something go wrong. Or take your car to another shop and get it re-quoted (preferably somewhere that regularly works on imports) to see if they can save you a few dollars.

some of those things are jobs you can to with minimal knowledge and tools.

You could EASILY cut that in half if you have a friend with a couple of basic tools and a spare weekend!

DONT JUST ALLOW YOURSELF TO GET BEND OVER LIKE THAT

I might be wrong, but it sounds like you took your car to Autobarn, which is a parts store. They came out and looked at it, and offered to sell you some parts. Perhaps they exaggerated the costs because they want to err on the safe side. Either way, you need to see a mechanic. If the guy offering to fix your car doesn't have oily hands from working on cars, you need to find help elsewhere.

I agree, the costs estimated are far too high. Castor rod bushes - $100, Steering boots - $40. You could probably get a decent set of second hand rear coilovers for $300 as well, which are best to source from a jap parts wrecker as if they're leaking/blown you can agree exchange (try to make this arrangement prior to purchase).

As for the leaks, just put some cardboard on the floor where you park, monitor the oil and other leaks, and track down their location yourself if wanting to save cash.

Also, do as much research as possible. READ A LOT of technical articles and learn about your car, or you will either:

a) be ripped off by unscrupulous people in the trade who get a sense of how little you know; or

b) have to be spoonfed all the information you need while lacking true peace of mind of how things are running so you could enjoy your driving with safety and confidence.

Hi, just one thing i am worrying about now. My friend is a mechanic and he told me that if i not changing the split outer tie rod ends and the caster arm bushes, my car can lost control very soon (meaning no steering power) and the worst case is the wheel can come off. Is that true???

I might be wrong, but it sounds like you took your car to Autobarn, which is a parts store. They came out and looked at it, and offered to sell you some parts. Perhaps they exaggerated the costs because they want to err on the safe side. Either way, you need to see a mechanic. If the guy offering to fix your car doesn't have oily hands from working on cars, you need to find help elsewhere.

I agree, the costs estimated are far too high. Castor rod bushes - $100, Steering boots - $40. You could probably get a decent set of second hand rear coilovers for $300 as well, which are best to source from a jap parts wrecker as if they're leaking/blown you can agree exchange (try to make this arrangement prior to purchase).

As for the leaks, just put some cardboard on the floor where you park, monitor the oil and other leaks, and track down their location yourself if wanting to save cash.

Also, do as much research as possible. READ A LOT of technical articles and learn about your car, or you will either:

a) be ripped off by unscrupulous people in the trade who get a sense of how little you know; or

b) have to be spoonfed all the information you need while lacking true peace of mind of how things are running so you could enjoy your driving with safety and confidence.

My friend is a mechanic...

How much time can he spend with you and your car?

Let him pore over your report > get the parts > get to work with him: don't just watch him > pay him > you save anyway + you learn heaps. :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...