Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ill hold the unsurmountable use of profanity in this post and put it simply, I got yellowed, for the following parts…. Any help and advice on finding, borrowing parts, or just intelligent ways of going around these things would be greatly accepted.

- No rubber mats on pedals.

- No tyre placard?

- No airbag on steering wheel.

- Need a new ca18det radiator mount.

- All brakes "worn". Don't know what the f**k that numpty knows about brakes, but ill be upgrading anyway, so hit me if your selling some,

- Seatbelts "worn".

- "Front" mount turbo, LMAO.

- Pod Filter. Are they not allowed either?

Any help welcomed, thanks everyone…..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343490-yellowed-silvia/
Share on other sites

Don't have any parts for you but my skyline got yellowed for the brakes not working. The way he checked was put his hand on the disc and told me its cold so they arn't working. He also asked me if i felt the brakes not working, I said no and he carried on that it's probably because im not a mechanic. I am a fitter and turner and im pretty sure there is nothing wrong with my brakes but what are you going to do about it. I am just going to machine the brakes and get new pads for it, far easier then fighting it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343490-yellowed-silvia/#findComment-5538634
Share on other sites

what do you actually have that was classed as "front mount turbo"? is it an intercooler? depends on whether you had to cut the front reo to get it in as to whether it's illegal or not. also depends on your states rules regarding intercoolers as well.

pod filter, again depends on your states regulations. i only know qld's where they are fine as long as they are secured with a bracket. some states though don't allow both a pod and an intercooler. you can either have 1 or the other.

no rubbers on the pedals is one not many people know about. just go to a wreckers and get the pads off a random car and see if they fit.

the no airbag one should only apply if the car was fitted with an airbag standard. if it wasn't then they can't get you for it, however, if you have an aftermarket wheel they can get you for being too small.

tyre placard, well i'm not sure how you'll get that one sorted. if they normally have them inside the glovebox then just get a new glovebox.

brakes, well depends on whether your pads were really worn, or the rotors were.

seat belts, bit hard to say about that one. are they frayed at all?

radiator mount, well again, just get a new one.

long story short though, most of the stuff you got done for is your own fault and you are actually in the wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343490-yellowed-silvia/#findComment-5538649
Share on other sites

- No tyre placard?

I'm sure you have friends with Silvias. Look at their tyre placard - if they have one it will be a sticker stuck onto the driver's side door jamb under the door striker... Now go use your fav publishing program to copy it and print it on sticker paper. This is what I did

- Seatbelts "worn".

frayed? If it's not frayed but just not retracting properly then chuck the seat belt assy in a bucket of detergent water overnight. If frayed, order some new Klippan ones from an auto store. Silvia S13 front driver = K6303 + K4425, front passenger = K6304 + K4425

- "Front" mount turbo, LMAO.

FMIC maybe? Can't be cutting reo bars

- Pod Filter. Are they not allowed either?

Not sure on this... I got away with it as mine is hidden under the nose panel from above and by an undertray from below...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343490-yellowed-silvia/#findComment-5541468
Share on other sites

How the fark can they tell if the brakes are worn w/out taking the wheel off?

by looking through the spokes in the wheel and seeing how much meat is left on the pad. and then if you feel the rotor for a wear lip you can tell how worn the rotors are (or at least how worn since they were last machined)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343490-yellowed-silvia/#findComment-5541833
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...