Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345690-what-aftermarket-parts-for-200awkw/
Share on other sites

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?
More than you might think! How much money do you want to spend?

Firstly an 80mm (three inch) exhaust from the turbo back - I prefer the split dump over the bellmouth.

Second an upgraded intercooler. A series 2 or GTT smic will do it but if you think you are going to want more power later you might as well get a return pipe front mount.

Thirdly to make a genuine 200awkw with an automatic awd Stagea you will need a better turbo -e.g. your stocker rebuilt by Hypergear or GCG

The most difficult part with an S1 is finding a way to tune it. I would suggest a Greddy E-manage.

A decent electronic boost controller would be nice .

This should get you 200 -220awkw

And finally you should probably invest in a new fuel pump (e.g. Walbro) as although the stocker may do it is quite old by now and you don't want to be caught out when it packs up.

Also change your brake fluid to say Motul RBF600 get some decent pads and a 24mm solid rear sway bar!

(I'm assuming you already have some decent tyres)

The above post is spot on

Once you start spending money the power goal of a SAFE 200awkw is the same for 250awkw

Set your goal higher, because 200awkw is not enough

hahaha niether is 250kw hey darrin :/ i also agree with kiwi except i wouldn't bother with a S2/R34 side mount intercooler, i don't think they are as good as some people say they are. i noticed heaps of heat soak with mine after a bit of spirited driving. go for a front mount, you can get them in different sizes so you will easily find something that fits the nose of a stagea. you can also get them in turnflow style so all the pipes meet up with your stock ones. the only other thing i'd add to what has already been said is get the auto looked at, a shift kit is a must when running more than stock power.

Sorry Shetlander to steal a bit of your post,but it's a good chance to ask...

So,you can get 200 awkw on stock injectors and pump?(apart for the issue of the age of the last)What about Z32 AFM,is it necesary ?or the stock could be ok ,let's say up to 220?

Edited by southern_tango

Freddy, 220-230kw is the max (safety wise) that you will get out of the stock AFM and injectors. Of course, there will be slight variances as per usual with different dyno's. Pushing injector duty cycle % combined with tuning past the AFM is not what you really want.

It would also be a good idea to replace your fuel pump if you're thinking about mods. The stocker would be a bit tired after over a decade of use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...