Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Set of original LM-GT1 18" x 9.5" Rims with ultra low profile Kumho Ecsta Supra 265x35x18 directional tyres "95% tread"

Reason for selling is they stick out of the guards on my GTST, so they are realy to suit a GTR, the are multi-stud so they fit oter models as well ...

Pickup Only - $4500 not neg.

03 5335 9168

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3457-original-nismo-18-lm-gt1-rims/
Share on other sites

If you got the guards rolled out they would be a perfect fit or you could get gtr front and rear guards fitted, but fitting rear guards is a big and expensive job. I actually had an idea b4, im wondering if shaving some of the back (side that sits against the disk) of the rim off will make them sit in more and not stick out of the guards ....

Yep they are definatly the best rims ever made, they are the rims of my dreams and it kills me to sell them, but i have got the suspension set so hard in my car so that the tyres dont scrub on the guards that it a very rough ride ... I even thought about jacking the car up off the wheels and putting a gtr on the wheels ... They dont stick out that that much, i just was reluctant to get someone to roll the gards out because there is no going back if they stuff it up ... You only realy need to get the back ones rolled cos u can put gtr front guards on relatively easily so im told. I can take measurements on how far they stick out if u r interested ...

I am willing to ship them but no cod's though ...

... COD :lol:

u prob would have them sold b4 i will buy them... which is after i get my gtst in nov.... but if uve still got them... well i most likely will buy them

thanx anyway

I am interested. I am in Horsham but I head down to Melbourne Regularly. Sunday would probably be ok this week.

I called but no answer, I guess that is a home number...

Tried calling again, no answer...

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...