Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I was pretty sure there was a post on here somewhere about doing this, but I cant seem to find it

Basically Ive already got the blue dash and air con lights, my hazard switch light has never worked, so thought I would try and fix that and while im at it make everything blue

Ive bought 2 x 3mm Blue LED's which had a max volatage of 4v from what I can see. But I thought stuff it there only 50c each I'll give it a go and hopefully it will only draw a few volts. But its blown the light by the looks of it as soon as I've tried it lol.

Basically just wanted to see if anyone else has done this? I'm guessing unless I can find a 3mm 12V Blue LED im going to have to get a resistor and put it in the wiring before the switch as its the only real place where there is room for it.

The only reason I'm posting this here is because I'm sure I've seen it in a thread somewhere where someone had done this with a 12v 3mm bulb, but it could have just been a normal globe not an LED

any help would be appreciated :(

Thanks

Callan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345781-demister-hazard-light/
Share on other sites

For any LED youll need a resistor in series to limit the current, go to jaycar or somewhere similar and buy a 220 Ohm resistor that'll give you around 55mA across the LED and itll be all good cost the whole of 20c. Then soldier the resistor to one of the LED legs and wire in normally (make sure you put the LED in the right way as there polarity sensitive)

yeah figured as much. I guess the wedge type ones have a resistor built into the base.

Ill have to wire the resistor into the wire before it plugs into the switch because there is no room inside the switch where the light sits to put a resistor, the legs come straight out of the LED and go basically 180 degrees then straight then 180degrees again, over a very small space

Thats fine but, 220ohm resitor will do the job you say? I could work it out, but if your sure thats what it is, it saves me some maths :(

Thanks

I did mine a while ago and changed the dimister to the a green/blue colour to match the aircon controler readout and the hazzard in red. It was a bit of a fiddly job to get them in the original rubber slieve bulb holders but it looks great now. I also did the AUTO switch on the drivers side power window switch

Alright I sorted it

Got a high intensity blue LED and put it in the holder for the light in both the switches. Then wired a 620ohm resistor into the light illumination wire.

Ill see if I can do a rough drawing

Hazard

Demister

- - - -

- - -

+ - - -

+ - -

Thats looking at the plugs coming from the car side. The + symbols are the wires in question. I think the demister may be the other way around (Bottom right wire not bottom left) but cant remember and my dash is back together :action-smiley-069:

anyway, it should be the blue with red striped wire. Theres one in each of the plugs, thats the wire for the illumination

Hopefully that helps someone

BTW: sorry about the formatting of the 'drawing', cant remember how to get it to space normally lol

Edited by 89CAL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...