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Hey there peeps Im currently in the process of getting the car ready to do an engine swap. I cant find any info anywhere on doing an engine swap, even the engine manual is very brief :P

Atm ive been following the engine removal process described in the topic "RB525 into r32" but im unsure if i have to take the gearbox out before removing the engine or can the box n engine come out in one piece? I also have to swap the GTR injectors and wiring into the new engine which is goin to be a mission aswell ;)

I also have had a problem with a 'whine' kind of noise coming from the turbo before coming on boost I thought it was a leaky gasket but they all looked to have sealed properly as I just took dump + turbo + exhaust manifold off

I did clean the turbo when i changed the exhaust studs a year ago so im wondering if there is supposed to be a seal between the front cover and backplate? its a HKS 2530

Any help would be really appreciated as i hope to have the old engine out this weekend and the new one in :)

Rohin

Anyone? All I have to do now is take off the gearbox crossmember and unbolt engine mounts n the box n motor can come out....can the box come out still attached?

I also found out the is no rubber O-ring or gasket from factory for the HKS/garrett 2530 turbo front cover so the 'whine' noise must only be the bearing in the turbo or a slight hole in the cooler piping, weird cause the spindle hasnt much shaft play

yes take the box out with the motor and swap everything over while the motors out.

the turbo should have a seal on the comp housing, is there a rebate for one on the backplate? if it doesnt have one, couldnt hurt to put some gasket silicone around the edge to make sure it seals

like this

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zt1IrYTCrOo/THPtRFnQ...%2019.29.52.jpg

ok sweet do i have to remove the powersteering lines under the motor? just wondering they might get crushed :down:

yeah there is a recess around the edge on the backplate thats why i was wondering if there was ment to be an o-ring there I guess I can use a small bead of silastic around that edge

Cheers im pullin the engine out tomoz morn cant wait :D

not sure bout p/s lines as i dont have a 32 but just be careful and pull it out nice and slowly with 2 people if possible. also get as much angle on the motor and box as you can

make sure you drain the gearbox oil. and be prepared to still make a mess when you pull it out, it all runs out the extension housing where the tailshaft was

throw a platic bag over end of box with rubber band wont make to much mess then, yeh like said before pull box out with it cause its bloody hard to get those bolts at the back everything else is pretty simple plug n play, screw n tight! garuntee u will miss something and engine is a bit reluctant to come out DONT FORCE IT! hav a look

mission nearly complete :) ended up pulling motor out minus gearbox, the 2 top bolts arnt too bad to get to if you have a long 14mm spanner :) I drained gearbox oil tho but just wondering if its possible to fill it back up via the gearstick hole? (I pulled the gearstick out cause was goin to pull motor out with box attached but didnt end up doing so)

putting on all belts and getting radiator back in tonight so i will see if it fires up tonight.....hope it does lol

Cheers for everyones help too, I will be a happy man when i hear that sweet soundin engine fire up :)

yes u can, aslong as its not 4wheel drive.

take the filler plug out of the side of the gearbox and fill the oil through the gearstick hole and watch for when the oil dribbles out of the filler hole on the side,

try to have the car level when filling it up.

Filled the box via the gearstick hole, took around 2.5 litres of castrol syntrans 75-85. so thats ok still have squeaky clutch unfortunately pretty sure its the pressure plate :(

anyhoo.... car started first go last night! but shit the lifters were noisy lol still kinda are now just gonna put some lifter free n tune in n hopefully they free up (wasnt sure how long engine was in storage for)

now one gremlin has showed up, I was just about to reverse the car out of the driveway for a test run and the powersteering started pulsating in tune with the HICAS light and a loud click, click, click could be heared from under the car. Ive done a search and found out it could be the alternator not charging (light dosnt come on on dash tho) i hooked up a multimeter and it only read around 12 volts (I read it should be around 14.4v after starting the car then should drop to around 13.8v) so yeah i guess i have to swap alternators back again.

can anyone confirm its the alternator thats causing the powersteering issue?

Thanks in advance, Rohin

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