Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY WRECKING A R34 25GTt

ITS WHITE, WITH DAMAGE TO THE PASSANGER SIDE AND LIGHT FRONT.

STILL HAS REGO NOT WRITTEN OFF.:whistling:

I'LL LIST PARTS AND PRICES BUT IM NEGOTIABLE, MAY HAVE MORE PARTS NOT LISTED SO ASK.

>LEFT HAND SIDE REAR TAIL LIGHT $70

>REAR BAR SCRATCHES NEEDS PAINT $50

>BOOT CARPET 7 PIECES $100

>REAR WINDOW (REMOVED) $150

>BOOT SEAL $10

>BOOT STRUTS $10

>FRONT AND REAR SEATS $200 (BLACK AND GREY)

>PARCAL SHELF $25

>REAR ("DOOR TRIMS") $25 EACH SIDE

>REAR PILLAR PLASTICS $25 EACH SIDE

>DRIVERSIDE DOOR COMPLETE $250

>DRIVERSIDE MIRROR $50

>AIR BAR STEERING WHEEL $150

>IGNITION BARRAL/DOOR/BOOT LOCKS AND A KEY $100

>IGNITION BARRAL COVERS $50

>DASH CLUSTER $100 85,000 K'S

>INDERCATOR STALK $25

>WIPER STALK $25

>REAR SEAT BELTS $50

>HKS HYPER D FRONT COILOVERS $450

>STOCK STRUT BRACES FRONT $25

>REAR STRUT BRACES (STOCK) $25

>DIFF $250

>EXHAUST, DUMP PIPE, HIGH FLOW CAT BOUT 3INCH $200

>STOCK REAR STRUTS $100

>REAR CRADLE $100

>BRAKES COMPLETE

.YOU GET ANYTHING YOU NEED HAND BRAKE ECT

$800

>COMPLETE MOTOR PACKAGE

.AFM

.LOOM

.ECU

.INJECTORS

.COILS

.ANYTHING YOU NEED

$2500 85,000 K'S

MANUAL CONVERSION

.GEARBOX

.SHIFTER

.TAILSHARFT

.CLUTCH MASTER

.PEDALS

.ANYTHING ELSE YOU MAY NEED

$1800

ALSO I HAVE SUSPENSION PARTS THAT I HAVENT LISTED HAVE TO CHECK CONDITION

I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THE MOTOR RUNNING UNTIL I SELL IT BUT WOULD ALSO LIKE TO MOVE ON THE BODY.

I HAVE LISTED PRICES BUT I AM NEGOTIABLE. I JUST SET A FIGURE TO WORK AROUND.

CAR IS IN MANSFIELD PARK 5012

THERE IS NO FRONT PARTS EG... LIGHTS BONNET GUARDS ECT.

WILL POST MOST PARTS BUT YOU HAVE TO PAY POSTAGE.

MAY TAKE WORK WHEELS AS PART TRADES

XT7 OR XD9'S IN 5 STUD :banana:

Edited by skyline_r33_panda
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347853-wrecking-r34/
Share on other sites

SORRY IF I HAVENT REPLYED I HAVE HEAPS OF PM'S

TRYING TO BE FAIR WITH SELLING PARTS BUT

FIST IN WITH THE CASH GETS THE PARTS

I NEED TO KEEP THE CAR COMPLETE MOTOR WISE BECAUSE I HAVE SOMEONE INTERSTED IN LOOKING AT IT RUNNING

post-51589-0-11791500-1292640673_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-59809700-1292640682_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-07715000-1292640692_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-82383100-1292640701_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-21559900-1292640709_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-60957600-1292640716_thumb.jpg

post-51589-0-56493900-1292640724_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347853-wrecking-r34/#findComment-5596285
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...