Jump to content
SAU Community

Crashed My R32 Into The Gutter. Tyre Arm Area Is All Bent


Recommended Posts

Okay the guy came back to me and said I need the following:

rear lower control arm

kyb rear strut (shocker inbuilt)

new 19" rim

both rear 19" tyres need replacing.

I have someone in mind for the control arm, but he said i need a new rear strut or 2 of them that are the same, they said the existing one I have is KYB and it has the shocker inbuilt, does anyone know how hard it will be to find this part? Are these the standard struts that come with the car or afternmarket parts? I want a cheap second hand one.

As for the tyre's I tried to find 19" 235 re-treads a few months ago but couldn't find places with them, does anyone know where I could find some?

Edited by cosmokram3r
  • Like 1

...

As for the tyre's I tried to find 19" 235 re-treads a few months ago but couldn't find places with them, does anyone know where I could find some?

I was going to offer useful advice until I read this. Seriously, who puts retreads on a car they care about?! Do not scrimp on tyres, that's what put you in this situation in the first place :domokun:

I was going to offer useful advice until I read this. Seriously, who puts retreads on a car they care about?! Do not scrimp on tyres, that's what put you in this situation in the first place :domokun:

You dont know my money situation do you mate? Plan was to use retreads temporarily to get the car on the road until I can afford to buy new tyres which I then will.

So what useful advise did you have then??

No you're right, I don't know your financial situation. But doing things twice instead of right the first time couldn't exactly help that.

KYB shocks are aftermarket. Get the part number off them so you can at least price up a new one/two.

I dont understand, do I need KYB rear struts or KYB shocks? Or are they the same thing just named different?

If I get the part number, where do I search? Didnt get much results for KYB shocks in the parts of sale forum area =\

Also.. how am I gonna find another rim to replace the one thats stuffed? I bought them off a mate I'd have no clue where to start looking.

Edited by cosmokram3r

Shocks and struts are the same thing. And Autobarn sell KYB. The part number will be printed somewhere on the shock.

Was hoping to try and find a second hand KYB shock but I understand that may be a bit difficult to find. I'll ask HPF for the part number but then again if I'm gonna pay full price might as well get them to source it. They said both have to be the same so long as they sell them I can get 1 instead of having to buy a pair.

hey mate we got a special set of KYB struts in the other day at pedders moorabbin as we were trying to match them to infinity struts we have either front or back atm but my boss could get the other 2 in. ring nick after 8am. 03 9555 5044 what he means is the shock it self is like a sleeve it slips down inside the strut and is held there by a locking nut. so when your shocks f**k out you only have to get another shock insert not a whole new strut which your wheel bolts to.

Thanks RDirty24door I called Nick and he said they were a special kind, and it would be almost $500 for the pair and they dont sell it in singles. Alot more then I wanted to pay lol I'll try and source a cheaper one, HPF said they could find a replacement for around the $200 mark so I'll give them a ring again and see if they can get onto that for me.

We sell them seperately at autobarn. Price will depend on car model of course but they're hardly priced like a Monroe. Will need to be ordered either way as we don't keep most of them on hand

Thanks KamikazeNinja34 but I'm just gonna let HPF source me a pair for $300 as they said they close up shop on Thursday until Jan 10th, which I had no idea about!

Really cant be without a car for that long, so I told them to go ahead and grab:

rear lower control arm $180 (could've bought it on SAU for $90 but didnt have the time)

2 x rear struts $150 each

+ labour

My tyre isnt flat but my rim is pretty scratched, but he says at least the car should at least be mobile!

Gotta price up 2 new 19" 235 tyres now and I've emailed 3 places who sell rim's with the photo of my car to see if they can identify the rim and let me know a replacement cost for 1 so we'll see how that goes, is there any good places I should know about that have a big range of rims? I emailed the tyre factory, bob jane and MotorSport wheels and tyres.

Maybe it was a bit faster I cant remember.. But dont forget bald tires so would think that would make things worse.

f**k now they've come back to me saying I'm gonna need a new rear diff k frame. Anyone know how much it would be and how hard are they to find? =(

Edited by cosmokram3r

You would be better off trying to find a rear cradle with control arms etc from a jap wrecker like just cap in sydney or something.

I had the same type of accident in the same car about 10-11 years ago. The guys that fixed it just ended up buying the rear end (cradle). Then you just need to make sure it is all straight and chassis isn't twisted. In my instance the front chassis arms were quite bent.

Also instead of trying to find and buy one 19" wheel, which will cost at least $250- $400 maybe try find standard gtst or even gtr wheels on the forum. Usually they come with tyres and will at least get you going again.

Anyway good luck. You might even better just parking till you can fix it and look into public transpoprt.

gtr fan: How much would a rear cradle end up costing?

Okay well very bad news, HPF have quoted me $2000 for the following parts and installation:

rear k frame

2 rear struts

lower control arm

wheel allignment

parts equal to $900

labour $900

rest is GST

And even then they may not know what else needs changing like the axel or bearings or whatever until they take it apart so if it ends up costing 3-4k then I'm pretty much f*cked!

Since they've already bought the lower control arm they're gonna chuck that on, then I'll tow it tomorrow with a tow dolly onto a car trailer and take it home while I figure out what to do with it..

Thinking of maybe selling it as is for 6-7k and just get rid of it, coz someone who's good with cars could then make it worthwhile to fix. I dont wanna spend 3-4k to fix it and then it'll be worth only 9-10k!

Yeah couldnt afford the crazy amount they wanted for full comp insurance and my dad wouldnt insure it under his name and name me an additional driver so I was forced to use 3rd party fire and theft for a while but had to pay for rego a month ago and couldnt afford to get insurance again but yeah..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...