Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Oil Filter Adapter

tm_r33

By tm_r33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

hey all.

just went to put my rb25det oil filter adaptor onto my new rb30det engine and notice it doesnt look right.

the rb30 block has a threaded male outlet but the female hole in the rb25 adapter is not threaded and is slightly larger in diameter.

doesnt look to me like it will seal properly.

see pics below.

Do i need to source an rb30 adapter? im now guessing the the 25 and 30 adapters are different?

post-43633-0-16211300-1294113254_thumb.jpg

post-43633-0-67519400-1294113295_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349149-which-oil-filter-adapter/
Share on other sites
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep, they both unscrew. if your having trouble getting the 25 one out i used the tool for changing discs on a makita angle grinder, perfect fit. as for the 30 one, i used nut munchers because i wasnt gonna use it, but if you want to keep it find 2 nuts in the right thread and lock them together.

also make sure you use a new gasket and everything seats properly, i cracked my filter housing from it not sitting right and tightening it up just a little. had to find another one, was a PITA

Edited by JonnoHR31
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

i kept the factory water cooler setup. havent taken any temp readings but water temps always nice and cool so i cant see it making the oil hotter.

i agree its not ideal but for a basic 30det it does the job

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh so the 30 doesnt have an adapter. the filter screws straight to the block.

eventually i will run a proper oil cooler it is a track car but for run-in and tuning i just need to get it going.

when i buy an oil cooler kit will i be needing the threaded male peice in the block or the unthreaded male piece?

i dont want to be swapping these once engine is in the car so if i need threaded later i will just put oil filter staright on block for now?

But if i need the unthreaded later i will do that now and run 25 oil to water cooler untill i buy oil cooler?

Thanks guys

(or will wether i buy a 25det or 30e oil cooler kit effect what peice in need in the block lol?)

erderr Contributor

erderr

Posted
Posted

You need to attach the oil filter block to the engine block, so you can screw on the oil filter or adapter for the oil cooling system. I'm pretty sure you cannot connect it straight up to the engine block as that's how I was going to get around replacing my oil filter block.

Also, FYI - you will need a gasket for the oil filter block to against the engine block. Justjap sell and stock them http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18637&cat=318&page=1 so you don't have to buy one off nissan directly.

Here's a picture of an oil filter relocation kit just so you can see what I mean (you need the thread to hold the connector on there, it wont attach directly to the engine block): http://www.full-race.com/catalog/images/s2000%20oil%20filter%20relocation%20kit1.jpg

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the input erderr

yer ive got a gasket. it came with one of the gasket kits when my 25/30 was built.

so did rb30 have a different oil filter block or not run one at all?

i dont want to use the 25det oil filter block because it has the huge hole cast into one side of it for the factory water cooler which i do not want to use.

so i still need a 30e oil filter block then is what your getting at? one that wont have provision for the water cooler just the filter?

(and obviously i chuck the sandwhich plate for the oil cooler kit where the filter would usualy sit on the 30e oil filter block?)

*tells girl friend to take me to wreckers to look at a vl commy oil filter block*

lol

thanks james

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

this must mean that oil cooler kit for 25 and 30 will be different?

one will take a thread (30e kit) and one will slide on and use the bolt holes round the outer (25det) ?

i cant see the oil cooler sandwhich plate in the 25 kit going onto the already existing factory warmer/cooler. surely it stil goes onto the block?

  • 1 month later...
HR31-PASSAGE Veteran

HR31-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted

how did you go with this mate?

i'm going the same thing my self atm & want to get rid of the water cooler but not 100% sure what hose/lines to remove/block, can anyone give me some directions on this please. didn't hapen to get some pics before you put the engine in did you, so i can see how you have it set up?

cheers

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

HR31-PASSAGE Veteran

HR31-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

oh ok i'm just not exactly sure what lines to remove.

do i just take all the lines from that rear water feed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...