Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am sadly, selling everything I have to do with an RB. There is a genuine reason for sale, as my priorites have changed in a different direction

RB25DET MOTOR - greddy style plenum, dressed with P/S pump, Alternator, Coils, complete loom, ECU, Injectors, everything - $1600

RB25 6 Boost high mount steampipe manifold, Garret GT3076 Turbo, 0.86 rear vband housing, Tial 44mm wastegate, and a custom front and dump pipe, 3" stainless off turbo and 2" stainless with a flex joint off the gate, plumbed back into the exhaust. Whole setup has only 10,000km on it, more than half of that is highway kays - $3500

Apexi SAF-C $250

Apexi AVC-R $500

Vipec V44 ECU with expansion harness and 7bar map sensor - direct plug in for RB25 - $1800

Nismo 740cc Injectors $800

OS Giken triple plate clutch and light flywheel $1800

Super Spark Coils for series 1 $300

Morristech high output coil igniter (series1) $200

RB25 Series 1 Loom to suit R32 - $300

RB25 Series 2 Loom, missing plugs that goto gearbox and cas - $150

Greddy style chrome inlet manifold $250

R33 GTS-T Rear cradle, complete, front brakes and hubs and lower control arms, knuckles - $1200

RB20 Gearbox with noisy bearing, but never failed $200

RB20/25/26 short shifter with replacement cover that bolts to gearbox, all billet $100

RB25 VCT Head minus cams, dissassembled, honestly have check exactly whats there, some parts may be missing. Includes rocker covers $350

RB30 Block, crank girdle, dip stick, crank, acid cleaned, honed $100

RB25 A/c Compressor - working $100

RB25 Power steering pump - working $120

adjustable cam gears - no brand (red + bronze) $150

Trust catback exhaust, 3.5" to a small trust box muffler, to twin 2.5" to twin 4" pipes $600

HKS Triple plate clutch to suit Hollinger box $1000

Ok, so I think thats all I have, ill post more later. If you want pictures hit me up, ill try get some up in the next few days though. Please call me on 0448 233 105 if your interested

Thanks, Leon

Cheers

no its not the one out of my r33 that is still going to be a daily. This is out of a R33 with 87,000km on it, maroon. Some guy did his rear quater and I got it for the r32 but its not happening any more. Im getting some crazy ideas Cal haha. Message me if you want to know specifics.

How much would it cost to ship the RB25 A/C compressor to WA 6060?

Cheers.

$125 Delivered through aus post with tracking number

Will you sell the 6boost seperately? How much?

Sorry, but I will not separate turbo kit. They are all quality bits and the dump pipe is custom made to suit. Buy it all :P

Sorry, but I will not separate turbo kit. They are all quality bits and the dump pipe is custom made to suit. Buy it all :P

Yeah thought about that but I already have a basically brand new 3076 for external gate. Will you sell it all minus turbo?

Yeah thought about that but I already have a basically brand new 3076 for external gate. Will you sell it all minus turbo?

Want to give me a call on 0448 233 105 and we can talk. Leon

Want to give me a call on 0448 233 105 and we can talk. Leon

Looking at a twing scroll 6boost and new rear housing atm so I'll get back to you if I need it.

thanks.

Ah ok, sounded like you were selling the engine that used to be in the 32.... which is now in the 33 haha so I was confused. You working this week? Might swing by if your free a bit later today. See if theres anything I need

Also have custom made stainless Intercooler pipes, 4" intake and greddy types rs blow off valve that has a stainless hardline return to intake, all custom polished stainless, $800

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, interested in the greddy style plenum.

How much would it cost with postage to Pacific Pines, QLD 4211.. does it come with all the hoses and bits and pieces? (EG: like what is included in the vulture motorsports kit for sale in the trader section) or is just the bare manifold?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...