Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whilst they are interchangle and the car will start etc

some MEC chip types are not, you may find if you get the wrong MEC chip type, the car runs OK and idles etc but as soon as you drive it, it becomes mega sluggish and performs like ASS

i had this on my series 2 GTST with a remapped ECU, the remap was done to suit basic mods and i connected it up, took it for a spin and it ran like a bucket of crap

turns out the MEC chip type was wrong and i had to use a different MEC chip number. ask a remapper what the MEC chip type means, from memory the guy in sydney taso i think knows what it means

Your mines ecu will probably have the speed limiter removed (all JDM cars are limited to 180km/hr) and be tuned differently from stock.

Are you planning to get a Nistune?

If the answer is yes then it may be possible to take out the Mines chip from your ecu and replace it with the Nistune chip (or it may be glued in too securely).

If the answer is no then ideally you would put your car on a dyno and do a run with the Mines ecu and then a stock ecu and keep the most suitable one.

Your mines ecu will probably have the speed limiter removed (all JDM cars are limited to 180km/hr) and be tuned differently from stock.

Are you planning to get a Nistune?

If the answer is yes then it may be possible to take out the Mines chip from your ecu and replace it with the Nistune chip (or it may be glued in too securely).

If the answer is no then ideally you would put your car on a dyno and do a run with the Mines ecu and then a stock ecu and keep the most suitable one.

Its different from stock, i emailed Mines and asked what they had done to it.

I would like to get a nistune, but i also want to be able to control all the stuff and aftermarket ecu's do that, but i am leaning towards a nistune due to the shear price, and if i give my fiance 2 options she would chose the cheaper option allowing me to get it sooner.

If i get a nistune and cant take the chip out of my mines i am screwwed, so i guess ill have a spare one ready to get chipped and put in and tuned

From memory the MEC number Paul is going in about is the type of chip in the ECU. so like he said you may have trouble putting say a MEC123 chip into an ECU board that is designed/programmed to read a MEC987 chip. The reason people swap just chips around is to reflash the tune, you pull the old chip out and install a new one with a tune burnt on it. It makes sense when doing this to keep the chip types the same.

Because your looking at using the whole ecu you should be ok using either the 0V800 or 0V801. I'm certain there wasn't any changes in sensor types or wiring between the 98-99 run of ecu's (800) and the 99-on (801). also, either ecu is able to be nistuned.

I know it's a different car but still a RB Nissan, I ran a 89 ecu in my 92 R32 without an issue.

Edit: should also add that the 89 ecu had a different MEC number to the original 92 ecu and I had no issues.

Edited by QWK32

Buy the nistune chipped ecu from KJB-R33. It will almost certainly work and if by some chance it doesn't you could always on sell it - its only the price of the Nistune chip anyway you could always take that out and it would be worth the price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...