Jump to content
SAU Community

Roll Cage And Rego

bigmikespec

By bigmikespec,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

SA brothers,

I have bashed out a few emails to some cage builders in SA late in the day but thought I might ask everyone here in SA as I am sure someone would know.

Is it possible to register a car in SA with a full weld in cage? I have heard mixed answers such as: no only a half cage, or, yes full cage but with removal side intrusion? At the end of the day I would like to keep it registered but I will not compromise the cage design just to do so.

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349433-roll-cage-and-rego/
Share on other sites
Luke_ENR34 Grand Master

Luke_ENR34

Posted
Posted

Hey mike.

Pretty sure the only way to rego a car with a full weld in cage is by having CAMS race rally rego. Only half cages can be engineered, but still need to be made to requirments around the head area.

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted

Hey mike.

Pretty sure the only way to rego a car with a full weld in cage is by having CAMS race rally rego. Only half cages can be engineered, but still need to be made to requirments around the head area.

thats what i have good word on

and to get registered like that you'll need a CAMS National Rally licence as well, then the car is log booked and inspected. For the inspection it has to comply with the class rules for a Dedicated Rally Car

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Half cage can be rego'd but the car has to be registered as a 2 seater and you have to have 150mm of head clearance between the bars and your head at the seats full back position.

So you have to take the rear seats and seat belts out and you are supposed to make the car not returnable to a 4/5 seater. i.e. you are supposed to weld the belt mounting points but if you fill them with silicon or body filler and paint over them they won't question it.

If you have a 4 door you also have to weld the rear doors shut for it to be passed as a 2 seater, but i don't think that applies to you.

Edited by D_Stirls
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^yep what they said... Half cage can be regoed, full cage nope only Rally reg/log book etc

Thanks for the replys fellas; so if that is the case going with a Rally rego. logbook etc... what are the conditions of driving them on the street? Is it only to and from events or at other specific periods?

Cheers

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted

similar but not the same

this is part of the paperwork you will need to fill out

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/639%20Application%20to%20Build%20a%20CAMS%20Dedicated%20Rally%20Car.pdf

SkyHi_33 Mentor

SkyHi_33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Half cage can be rego'd but the car has to be registered as a 2 seater and you have to have 150mm of head clearance between the bars and your head at the seats full back position.

So you have to take the rear seats and seat belts out and you are supposed to make the car not returnable to a 4/5 seater. i.e. you are supposed to weld the belt mounting points but if you fill them with silicon or body filler and paint over them they won't question it.

If you have a 4 door you also have to weld the rear doors shut for it to be passed as a 2 seater, but i don't think that applies to you.

Not necessarily welded, i registered mine as a 2 seater and put a half cage in, had to remove seats, seat belts and put the bolts back in to the seat belt bolt holes. Reason they want them filled (welded, or bolt put back in) is because they are used in the integrated chassis as part of a crunch zone. Leaving them open weakens the stress points in that part of the chassis. Thats what i was told when i put mine through.

Edited by SkyHi_33
samstain Enthusiast

samstain

Posted
Posted (edited)

The rally rego thing is pretty easy to do - but only if you are going to use it as a rally car. You can only use it on the road to get to/from or compete in an event, service work or a promotional event - so if you are caught in the city or down glenelg or some random back street they will come down on you hard - not just the cops but the CAMS guys that sign off on the paperwork for you as they don't want it screwed up for the guys that legitimatally need this kind of licence.

From memory you also have to compete in a number of events rally events per year to keep it all up to date.

Edited by samstain
samstain Enthusiast

samstain

Posted
Posted (edited)

Best to ring CAMS, but basically 3 events that would require you to have a car with full cage that on the road - so 3 motorkhana's/hill climbs/sprints at mallala etc ain't going to cut it as they will just tell you to trailer it there.

Assuming this is going to be a tarmac based car you might struggle to find 3 events in SA - There is the ASP tarmac rally... but other than that you are going to be hitting up some pretty rough dirt roads to get any more signed off :O

Edited by samstain
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies; yes I am just weighing my options up here.

Speaking to cage builders in SA it seems like some people just continue to drive their cars (not necessarily GTR's) on the road under normal rego and hope that they dont get pulled over or defected/fined.

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted

i think its the Southern Districts Car Club that is your best bet to talk to

a mate of mine from army is a part of it (he gets involved in the Adelaide Hills Tarmac Rally), they do one day / weekend events 3 times a year i think he said

the 3 events and that all have to be specific to your licence (in this case the National Rally Licence)

Best bet, either ring CAMS or get in touch with a specific club

Im goin on what ive been told from a bloke who has been rallying (both dirt and tarmac) for about 10 years or more

  • 1 year later...
355GTS Community Regular

355GTS

Posted
Posted

Hi All, This is probably old news to those in the know......but I have done a little research for Victoria and roll cages and registration in Victoria and found the following useful link:

If I read it right, a VASS can sign off on the cage as conforming as long as you can check all the boxes listed. It seems seats and seat belts can be replaced with the racing items as long as they meet the checklist requirements such as the tubes they are secured to being strong enough to support the loads they may see in an accident...

First link - look at section 9.5, it has a paragraph referring to rollcages. It then refers you to the VASS checklist for modifications.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/9B3A858D-15A0-4572-90BF-3D08214BF7BE/0/VSInumber8Guidetomodificationsformotorvehicles.pdf

Page 51 refers to roll cages and is the VASS checklist.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP7_Section_LK_Seating_and_Occupant_Protection_1Jan2011_v2.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...