Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice.

I have an R33 GTS25T with:

Pod filter

Intercooler

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Walbro fuel pump (not a fake)

550cc injectors

Oil catch can

HKS GT-RS Turbo

Power FC

Greddy profec bspec 2

Currently it makes 338rwhp on ~15psi. No real blowby to speak of, pretty healthy motor on 97xxx kms.

Basically, I was considering getting a retune and upping the boost to around 18psi. Anyone know what sort of gains I could expect, or should I not bother because I am already making the power most people make out of this turbo anyway? (Boost being a measure of resistance to flow etc etc)

I have also heard claims that the standard exhaust manifold is marginal even at the power I am currently making, is there any truth to this?

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349514-gt-rs-more-boost/
Share on other sites

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

1. unless you built the motor or know the person that did then it's not on 97,000 (probably more like 197,000)

2. do it

You know this how? :P

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

You know this how? :P

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

all these people with "80,000" skylines make me lol

as phil said, throw it on the rollers and tune it up until the point of diminishing return

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

Yeah, I was more interested in the hp gain vs boost added, that helps!

Are you running a standard exhaust manifold?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...