Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have heard of people finding their steering to be heavier after fiting the lockbar but then there is no movement in the rear wheels anymore

when i fitted the lockbar i went down and got a four wheel allignment and afterwards found the car to be more predictable when cornering under power (in a controlled enviroment of course) and noticed no difference to the feel of the power steering

the only thing that changed was the hicas light stayed on easily fixed by removing the globe

have a look in the diy section of the forums im sure all this will have been covered along with a guide on how to fit the lockbar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349609-hicas/#findComment-5616168
Share on other sites

On the 32's, the HICAS was a hydraulic system running off the same power steering pump, etc as the front steering.

On the 33's, it's a fully electric system, completely separate from the front power steering, so unless someone stuffs something up terribly, your standard power steering won't be affected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349609-hicas/#findComment-5617663
Share on other sites

33s have speed variable power steering , softer at low km , harder at high km

depending on how hicas is cancelled you will lose the variable part and only have the harder setting

R32's have the speed sensitive steering too.

Heavy steering is usually a HICAS fault, common causes are removal of the HICAS control unit and incorrect alignment of the clock spring behind the steering wheel (steering angle sensor).

P.S. ditch HICAS, the car will be more predictable and safer on the edge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349609-hicas/#findComment-5624686
Share on other sites

my hicas seems to be a little bit weird... does it's check sometimes when im just cruising down the road (happened both times around doing 60km/h)

which in turn makes the butt end of my gtr shake and is quite a dodgy feeling when your car does that... is it easy to still remove hicas on 33gtr's? same business or a little different?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349609-hicas/#findComment-5629761
Share on other sites

super hicas, hicas, its all the same shiz, there are few ways of doing it tho, some ppl are happy jsut to put in a lock bar, some ppl remove the whole system lines, fuse/relay etc

u can buy shitty chinese ones, or for about $50-$80 more u can buy urself a good one.

talk to Jeremy at styled 2 race he got me in my whiteline one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349609-hicas/#findComment-5630570
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...