Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i havnt been on in a while.

long story short on the 5/10/2010 my c210 was hit head on by a oncomming dickhead who was "blinded" by the sunlight.

I was dropping my girlfriend home and came over a large crest in the road around the corner from her house, slowed to about 20 kmph as i approached the bottom of the hill towards the t junction, and a dooshbag in a black toyota echo came around the corner, up the hill, into the direct sunlight and onto my side of the road.

i moved over as much as i could in my lane, got both my car up on the verge and this bloke hit me head on at about 60kmph.He swerved at the last minute causing him to hit my drivers side front end, (direct impact with the headlights) which swung his car around and it scraped the whole drivers side of my car. He says he couldnt see, which is understrandable as the sun was setting over the top of the hill in direct line of his sight. What i dont undertsand is why he continued to increase his speed although he couldnt see where he was going.

Lets just say he is lucky to be alive... not from the accident, but from my reaction.

His car was written off, and mine has had the whole drivers side front end (bonnet, guard, bumpers etc) and drivers side of my car ( drivers door, drivers side rear door and rear quater/bumper moulds) with various scratches and grazings.

My car has a fuly rebuilt engine, which i built with my dad, i painted it, polished the rocker cover for 4 days making it like chrome, new radiator etc. Lucky, the raditor supprt bracket is bent but it didnt split the radiator. so the engine is fine luckily.

To make matters worse, the kids family aee a complete load of idiots with no regard for cars, no general respect and have made this issue very difficult for me to resolve.

The blokes insurance offered my $100 for my car as a write off, and if i wanted it back i would have to hand in the plates, and go bid for it at pickles auctions.... I told them that wasnt a option and after much argueing with alliance insurance i wrote a letter to the exectutive of the company, explain my situation. They say the biggest payout i will get is $3000 and i get to keep the car,i guess ill have to settle for that.

I will let you know the outcome!

I WILL fix my car, i havnt another c210 as a parts car but any help will be appreciated.

the car will be restored once again. and then im putting it in a shed and it will go to shows on a f**kin trailer.....

Let me know if you can help!

cheers. kev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349843-1978-c210-crash-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Shit mate that's terrible, I wish I could help you out but this is the exact reason I'm parting with my coupe. There's just to many bad drivers on the road and to few of these old girls left.

Good luck with the re-build champthumbsup.gif

thanks Mastadd, i think Socrates may be in need for those surrounds more than me, weve both had unfortunate things happen to our c210's. :(

im still waiting for a reply from the insurance company, soon im going to be ringing them up asking what the hell is going on with my claim.

ive got my second C210 parts car that i can pretty much fix my other car with, although another front bumper would be very handy.

What is it with C210s and crashing in Perth? Not cool! As much as I'm trying to get Socs to buy a 33 (DO IT SOCS!!! FKN DO IT!!!!!), best of luck fixing yours up.

Some f**ked up drivers on the roads here, its the reason why I just bought another daily to keep my 33 safe.

Best thing Ive ever done while fixing up a car, buy a $500 Daily crapper, like not TOTAL crap, but a early 80's Suzuki swift/holdon barina. It lasted the 3 months i needed it for, and sold it for the same price I bought it, only expense was a radiator cap and fuel.....

I guess if it was a GTST it would be different BUT

Depends how much the person loves their car if even if it was a GTST.

I would drive stock R34 GTR as a daily to keep my Datsun safe and most likely get more fuel economy out of the R34 anyway.

Kevin, I hate to hear that someone's smashed up your pride and joy. Congratulations are in order though for refusing to accept the rubbish offer from Allienz. Hopefully you'll get the $3G, which is more than enough to pull panels from your parts car, rust repair the replacement panels, and respray them. Bumper rechromers should be able to straighten a bumper that's bent like a banana for less than $300... unless it's rusty.

What's happened to your car Socrates?

I did stupid shit on gravel and hit a tree stump.

hit between front right headlights

chassis rail concertina'd under battery and in front of engine crossmember.

I will fix it, getting looked at on monday

Happened on 12th December.

Hey Guys, IF I can help sourcing any bits you might need give me a buzz, because a few wreckers over here in Sydney are getting a few of these in and they just sit there for some reason. I got harvo some bits for his recently although the buggers are catching on that the parts are getting hard to get and pricing them accordingly. It's mostly sedans I have seen lately, so whatever is interchangeable is good to go I guess.

Drew, did you ever get those springs matched up & I just sent hgc210 a PM letting him know I'll be down your way early Feb.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...