Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Condition: Good, runs perfect

Location: sunny coast

Reason For Sale: too many toys, buying a house

Contact Details: Ryan 0413 764 859 PM

Price and Payment Conditions:$4500 cash

Hey guys and gals, looking to get rid of my recently completed 32 build. Thought i was keen to get back into drifting, but havent really got the time and things have changed so i either sell it or get a trailer, so selling it is as trying to buy a house also.

bought as a shell and then just put a rb20 back into it for the ease of things

body is straight, however RH front gaurd is grey and the rest of the car is dark factory blue ish, one bumper is blue but center is cut out and other bumper is grey, side skirts are in good condition (just not fitted atm)

car is currently not regoed, but has been previously.

motor runs great and was impressed how well it performed on 9psi (1st rb20 i have had)

so drop me a PM or call or txt after hrs

R32 Type M

Complied and previously registered

Rb20DET, 5 speed (140k km on motor)

Standard turbo, FMIC, HKS catback 3 ½”, 3” dump and front pipe, 3 ½” Cat

Rb25 P/S pump (non Hicas) and harmonic balancer, P/s cooler

A/C removed completely

R33 GTR fuel pump relay wired to battery with shut off switch on dash panel

Suspension

R33 front LCA

Front and rear cusco strut braces

Cusco front coilovers, GAB adjustable rear coilovers, spare pair of leaking cusco rears

Adjustable caster arms

Rear subframe bushes

Driveline

5 puck Exceedy button clutch

New clutch slave cylinder

Shimmed viscous diff (locked tight)

17x8 5 spoke random jap rims on front (good tyres), S14 stockO’s on the rear (spare 16 tyres)

Interior

All sound deadening removed

Heater box removed

Ebay deep dish steering wheel

Autometer monster tacho, electronic boost, oil pressure and coolant temp gauges (unknown brand)

Battery relocated to boot in box with isolator switch

6 switch panel in dash centre

Bunnings drift button

Stock front seats

immobiliser

Maintanence items (done 1 prac nite @ QR)

Gates Racing timing belt

Diff oil, Gearbox oil, engine oil + filter

BKR7E spark plugs @ .8mm

Cam and crank seals, rear main seal

Spares

Dash pad (good nick, good vents)

P/s rack, Rh wishbone and hub, caster arm brackets

Front bumper, Rh front guard, fuel flap

Coilpacks, tyres, rear coilovers (leaking)

Many other bits out of a front cut

$4500

Edited by Rb20_180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350263-cheap-32-2-dr/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...