Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and gals

I am wondering what to do and I need some suggestions if possible

Should I buy someone elses baby at a bargain basement price comparative to what they spent on it with rebuild and upgrades etc

However I am aware of dodgy rebuilds

dodgy mileage, thrashed, overboosted and mistreated cars and repaired writeoffs etc...not just the imports...

Or buy one and do up the engine myself...

Unfortunately I can't afford the full N1 or Group A race prep treatment which I would do in a heartbeat if I found 100G in a paper bag...(after I declared it of course...)

SO that leaves me with the working pauper option of rebuild an old one...

What would be the cheapest decent rebuild including labour?

I'm not after high KWS just decent performance, handling and reliability comparable to original(ish) specs or better if possible

Do part brands really matter...or are they really much the same?

(Are there compatibility issues like my partner and I ?)

SO what do you guys consider to be the CHEAPEST OF THE BEST...not the best of the cheapest

for my upcoming project

Unfortunately, I am on a budget so I could chase up parts on ebay or import them, whatever and give them to a mechanic to install...

and what parts could I safely install second hand to save money...like Garret turbos

(or whack in some second hand R33 ball bearing ones)

One last point, I saw advertised basic rebuild kits for $2700: metal gaskets, forgies, rods, bearings etc...would this be enough...and how much would be the labour cost for this basic rebuild?

Thanks heaps,

yours in speeding responsibly

Tone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350265-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Cheap & best do not go in the same sentence when you are talking about GTR's, rebuilds or otherwise.

If you cut corners, you will get burnt.

For a rebuild you are looking @ between 7-10k drive in/out, as realistically you won't be doing any of the work yourself.

That does not include things like turbos, ECU, injectors, AFM's, exhaust, clutch and everything else.

Same as every other thread... Two simple things.

1. What is the budget?

2. If you cannot afford the rebuild, then don't modify it over and above common/accepted limits.

You are playing with a motor that is almost 20yrs old. Ask much of it, it will give you much grief back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5624044
Share on other sites

You also have to worry about all the machine work to the block which also takes up alot of $$$$. cost me near on 3k just for machining to a dirty old CA18det but that was the full treatment inc matching the engine bores to the cross weaves in the CP forged pistons. you will never build a motor as cheap as what you would be able to buy off someone. if your going to buy a built motor ask for as many details about the motor as possible inc receipts for labour costs parts receipts etc if all that is unavailable to you then you cannot be 110% what your buying. id suggest you ring a few workshops and talk to them about it as they will ask you questions like what you intend to do with the car. In most cases rebuilding an RB26 if you cant afford all top dollar parts juts make sure you get at least an N1 oil pump as the standard pumps sometimes have trouble getting oil to the top of the head. have you thought about just putting in another standard motor? as obviously your not wanting it to be a dyno queen usually you would only rebuild the motor if you no your going to be giving it shit other wise imo id be just looking for a half cut and you will then have shit loads of spares left over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350265-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5624106
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...