Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im new and have a problem that no search on here or google can solve.

Ok, so iv got an r33 gtst auto rb25det.

Iv fully rebuilt the engine, 1mm oversize, cp forged pistons, eagle H rods, full port n polish, custom extractors, top mount t04z, 50mm greddy wastegate, 3" straight through system, fmic, plus heaps i have forgotten.

Problem is i cant get it to run right, to have it idle and drive nicely, timing is set at about 25 degrees (shit loads) but doesnt detonate at all, and less advance it dies off. When i hold it wide it gets to 5000 revs and has a bad flat spot untill a spike in power at 6200. I have the stock ecu, all electrics are stock so i can get engineered. even if i hit the throttle at idle and it revs to 3000 it sometimes dies or struggles to get a smooth idle back. And its especially bad when driving even very lightly on throttle, i have to hold it on a bit when i back off to stop it stalling.

Any ideas would be great as its driving me nuts iv tried heaps like new afm, o2, reset ecu and all plugs, its got no leaks (air).

Everything electric is same as it was before i pulled it down and it used to run spot on. Its not running rich either (about 11-12L/100k)

Cheers!

Edited by Amon Burkill
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350357-r33-issues-can-you-help/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

mate i'm no tuner but if my car had had that amount of work done i'd go aftermarket computer like link/haltech/viper.even if you just change your exhaust you need it tuned properly.has it been dyno'ed to check things out?you want it to run good to prevent any damage to what you've got.good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...