Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys- I have recently bought a standard 95 gtst and have been having problems with it having flat spots. I have replaced the plugs and gapped them at 0.8, replaced the coils with splitfires, and changed the fuel filter.

The car is stock with only minor mods exhaust, pod, r34 smic and a turbotech boost controller set at 9 (As low as i could..) The problem was definately worse on the old coils and plugs, and its not popping and spluttering anymore but it still has flat spots under hard acceleration. I have noticed that if i back off slightly as it starts to miss, and continue to feed power in it drives really well.. (Eg driving at 3/4 throttle the car accelerates fine)

I realise these are newbie questions but any help is appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350599-r33-gtst-flat-spots/
Share on other sites

hey mate,

i had a few flat spots for a while too. Basically i rekon your timing is abit out. Take to a tuner and get them to run it on the dyno. If the curve dips down then back up then down, or something to that extent i would most definately say its your timing. The tuner should be able to fix it for you.

cheers

Just taking it for a drive and feeding it on in third, i noticed that the flat spots are spot on 3500-4000 then again at 4500-5000. The rest of the rev range is pulling really hard. I dont know if i mentioned i am using plugs that are pfr511g. I have gapped them to 0.8 but i have noticed that the other guys on here seem to go with the bcpr6es plugs, so i figure thats my next point of call, hopefully not the ecu!!

I have spoken to a tuner (toshi in sydney) and he said that it would be the computer detecting somesort of overboost and that when he remaps the ecu it will be solved. Its a bit of a bummer cause i cant afford the tune for a while. I also tried taking off the boost controller and running the stock t piece, but it still makes around 10-11 pound of boost anyway, and the problem is still there. I think toshi is definately my next priority.

It would be more so airflow in excess of expected and the ecu will be most likely chucking fuel and taking timid out of it. And as said when it hits the point where VCT switches off it's dying

R33's dont have boost sensing to the ecu so it will be your AFM saying WTF :)

If he's doing a remap it should fix your problem but you should probably go to the spark plugs you mentioned above as well

In my r32 I was running copper plugs bkr6e then went bcpr6es and had flat spots all thru the rev range I doing think changing your ecu will do anything get it to tuner check timing and afr thats the easyiest and less cost effective way to sort the issue out don't take this negatively but I'm speaking from experience

from what your describing ive had a similiar problem, same thing happened when the boost was set to 10psi, going up through 2nd or 3rd, then in the higher rev range would noticeably *stall* in power. apparently was to do with the stock ecu freaking out and dumping fuel at that moment, or rich and retard they call it

anyway i upgraded the ecu in the end and got it dyno tuned. smooth as silk now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...