Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought a motor and gearbox setup and just curious about it before i put it in my R31.

what i was told be the bloke i bought it off was he had it in his drift R31 car before he destroyed the rear end of the car

its aparently a VL turbo block with forged internals rb20 redtop head with rb26 internals in the head as i say wat i was told

and the gearbox is from an GT-R with the transfer case cut off and sealed up apparently they have a stronger centre shaft

hes said it was pushing 450hp-650hp depending on wat turbo/intercooler setup was used and recons it runs 500hp day in day out

now im just wondering if it could work, and or wat peoples opions are about it will attach a picture

post-64604-0-65934200-1295267075_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350747-rb20-redtop-headrb30-block/
Share on other sites

ok i was told from someone else that a rb20 redtop head was the only 20 head that bolted straight on aswell as the r32 rb25

well sound like im one step up from before anyway lol cheers

it looks like a rb20 head to me in every way, as far as im aware the rb20s dont flow as much air due to the smaller valves.. without knowing exactly whats been done its hard to speculate what sort of power its capable of, but i guess 400-450hp may be more realistic than 650hp.. i would stick on a gt30r n see how it goes

People used to bolt rb20 heads to rb30 blocks in the old days (like, early 90's) because rb25 and 26 heads were still rare and prohibitively expensive. There is a lot more modding to do to the rb20 head to fit to the rb30 block (eg bore size is different) compared with the other conversions but people did it because they didn't have much choice in those days. Nowadays nobody does it for the reasons mentioned above.

In terms of flow, it stands to reason that the head and valvetrain would be modified because stock for stock, taking off the sohc head and putting on the 2.0 twin cam doesn't net that much of a benefit, you have to mod the 20 head to make the whole thing worthwhile IMO (which is what appears to have been done in this case).

it looks like a rb20 head to me in every way, as far as im aware the rb20s dont flow as much air due to the smaller valves.. without knowing exactly whats been done its hard to speculate what sort of power its capable of, but i guess 400-450hp may be more realistic than 650hp.. i would stick on a gt30r n see how it goes

It's definately a HR31 RB20 NICS Red top head. No doubt about it.

Not R32.

As for it being a 3ltr. Look @ the block number.

Either way a LOT of dicking around to get that kinda setup to work - as frankly, it doesn't without some serious time/effort and even then the results are poor as the head simply does not flow.

yer even silvertop heads arent worth it because they dont flow but using a NICS head, might aswell buy an excel....

you can see from the pic that its a 30 block, the tensioner has been relocated above the water pump.

i remember about 14 or so yrs ago there was a vl commo that ran a red top rb20 head. apparently theres alot of wok to get them to fit, but as said above back in the day they were the only cost effective option. have a poke around on the commodore forums u may be able to dig up some info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...