Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just a quick question, my car started miss firing the other day above 30-40% throttle and generall high in the rev range, then it went away. Came back today just before i filled it up but alot worse like doing 100% of the time newhere above like 20% throttle. The plugs are only 5000k's old so im asuming its not them could it be bad fuel as it went away again about 10 mins after filling it up?? I just though bad fuel would only effect highly tuned cars, mine only has an safc and slightly advanced timing? Nehelp?

Cheers

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35113-miss-firing-above-30-40-throttle/
Share on other sites

I had a very similar issue with my car (MR2 Turbo)

First of all after changing the alarm system the problem went away for approx 6 months. (the wiring on the old alarm was dodgy with a capital CRAP!) However the miss did return after that and ended up being the fact that the distributor and rotor button were worn out and hence the engine was not getting spark causing it to miss fire and sound like it was running on 3 cylinders.

For you car I would reccomend checking out the coils to make sure youre getting enough spark & check the plugs to make sure they're not fouled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...