Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have a V35 sedan 250 GT

and I just want to lower my car if possible, I tried Repco and Pedders, but they dont even know what V35 is.

I was wondering if there is a car which has identical springs as V35?

And I DONT want to do dodgy stuff how people cut springs n stuff.

In the future I will order Coilover form Japan, but for now, I need Lowerd springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351437-how-to-lower-v35-sedan/
Share on other sites

yeap + 1 on the 350Z springs it loweres it about 1 inch to 1.5 . i got mine very cheap from a local mechanic cus he put coilovers for one of his customers and the guy didnt want to keep his old shocks and springs so i gave the mechanic $50 and got me a set of prety decent springs.

and best thing about that no decrease in ride comfort or scrape on speed bumbps

  • Like 1

350z springs are not the SAME as V35 sedan otherwise there would be no point in recommending them to you. They are however compatible and are slightly shorter than V35 springs hence lowering your car by approx 1inch.

Check my topics....I have the complete set of springs and shocks from a 350z in my V35 sedan. A few other members have done the same with good results.

I have v35 gt-8 and just been lowered .. King Springs sent me a wrong ones ( too low ) then they have to make new sets just for my car .. I suggest you contact them and have to ask for the v35 sedan ... the new springs set the car nicely and fitted 17x8,5 and 17x9.5

Ask for Kris Tarrant as he is the person that took my order

I have a set of t2000 titanium springs under my v35, its too low. I need a set of 350 springs, any ideas?

Same springs as I had on my 300GT before the change to Z springs. Low is an understatement.

Now just need to sort some camber issues. :(

Keep an eye on all Nissan forums for Z spring.

  • 1 month later...

from what i read on teh g35driver forum, my understanding was you need to use the 350 sturts/shocks along with the springs.. not just the springs with the 35 struts/shock.. due to travel lengths and blowing the ass out of the 35 shocks over time from being to low.

Edited by GeNOS

has anyone played with shock spring combos? im wondering if the 350z setup stiffness is due to spring or shock..... am considering putting the Z springs with the V shocks to see if it loses a bit of its rigidity. as it is, the Z shocks and springs compress less than an inch max under load

anyone have some springs they want to sell?

has anyone played with shock spring combos? im wondering if the 350z setup stiffness is due to spring or shock..... am considering putting the Z springs with the V shocks to see if it loses a bit of its rigidity. as it is, the Z shocks and springs compress less than an inch max under load

see my first post above

see my first post above

i really want to know if people have had personal experience rather than word of mouth.....

plenty of people say bmws are too expensive to own and fix, but i proved they were cheaper than holdens with a bit of know how

i really want to know if people have had personal experience rather than word of mouth.....

plenty of people say bmws are too expensive to own and fix, but i proved they were cheaper than holdens with a bit of know how

From personal & current experience I have to disagree with your statement saying the 350z shock and spring combo is like riding on bumpstops.

I have driven on stock suspension, aftermarket coilovers and have fitted the 350z shock and spring combo to both my V35 sedans 300GT and 350GT.

The 350z combo rates the best amongst all the above in terms of balancing comfort and handling. Yes they are a bit firmer than factory suspension but overall still gives you similar ride quality without sacrificing much in terms of comfort. There is also the added bonus of increased handling and reducing body roll.

My wife drives the V now taking two kids in the backseat and she has never complained once about the suspension qualities, infact I doubt she even noticed when I switched from factory to Z suspension :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...