Jump to content
SAU Community

Radiator Replacement - Help Needed

And

By And,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

LiQuid IcE Experienced

LiQuid IcE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Installed my R33 S2 auto radiator into my mums stagea series 1 with no issues and got myself a shiny allow one since I dont need the auto radiator anymore.

So from experience the R33 radiator works fine in the series 1 stagea.

Edited by LiQuid IcE
horrace Rising Star

horrace

Posted
Posted

Yeah I wanna keep the cooler though, I have been on the look out for a standard 33/34 auto rad. I think the core is 25mm thick and I could retain the cooler/warmer. I had no luck getting second hand ones so I was gonna get one off eBay but for the price chuckie got his seems like the better option.

alu-siv_stagea Community Regular

alu-siv_stagea

Posted
Posted

I just picked up a factory replacement koyo radiator for 350 will put it in this weekend and see how things go, it's allso automatic, couldnt be bothered going bigger then adding warmer/cooler and the fact that the factory koyo is half the price of the full aluminum rads.

And Collaborator

And

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi guys, my apologies, they blocked access from work and I was fairly busy recently (and bloody card reader stopped working !!)

Any way, as guys said, I got it from John for around $400 fitted with warranty. Cooling system flushed, new coolant, all checked. It almost twice as thick as the old one .. but look at the pics, they speak for themselves.

I'm happy. IF I KNEW how thin was the old one, I'd change it long time ago - every now and then I go up north and I've seen +48.5 outside, going 100+ (well.. ++ :-)), loaded car, aircon on... I'll feel much better from now one..

Probably we could the radiator slightly cheaper, but I'd agree - for extra $50 someone does all the work + coolant + flush + testing + warranty + running around. $50 well spent.

post-23006-0-42571600-1297496145_thumb.jpg

post-23006-0-44635100-1297496158_thumb.jpg

post-23006-0-33882900-1297496315_thumb.jpg

Edited by And
  • 1 year later...
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Just noticed a crack in the top of my radiator and cooland is now leaking out....

Anybody have the part number for the above KOYORAD replacement or know of a distributor in sydney??

Thanks Guys.

Adrian

Got mine off eBay, $220 ish no regrets (had an alloy on in between and it was junk)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...