Jump to content
SAU Community

L28&l20 Turbo Motors

old dude
 Share

Recommended Posts

old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
Posted

L20det complete original running motor Exedy heavy clutch short nose box all in very good condition

only mod is a high flow r34 turbo stainless split dump and front pipe all in perfect condition.$1500

L28 280ZX Turbo motor Reco P90 head new TO4ETurbo Dump pipe to suit F54 block new 5puc button clutch

280ZX Turbo box, Wolf3D ecu wiring for R30$2500 complete drop in motors with clutches boxes etc etc.

Both in very good condition no faults.

No silly offers may separate bits if enough interest but price will differ from complete set ups.

Selling to fund a different Enging combo

Make offers will deliver for fuel & time depends how far and convenience.

0415 346 073

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351840-l28l20-turbo-motors/
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Very interesting old dude,

I am not currently in the market, but will be in the future.

"high flow r34 turbo stainless split dump and front pipe all in perfect condition"

Would you consider selling this as a package? (Trade in for stock L20et Turbo and dump plus cash?)

old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Estimated or if known RWHP of each engine and what car they were in?

The L20et is out of a HR30 gt RWHP not much factory 144 this has bigger injectors

bigger turbo and split dump pipe so probably a bit more.Good thing its all original

and in excellent running order also the ECU will go with it along with all the Factory

Turbo stuff.

The L28et came out of a 280zx so all factory turbo stuff except injectors turbo dump

ECU new clutch ass might even throw in the same side inlets front mount and piping

Clutch Turbo head have only done a few hrs work this also was in the HR30 after the L20

but like i said I'm going a total different way and what ever i get for it all will be

put to that.As to RWHP 250+ maybe not really interest in figures as there not big enough

to talk about but plenty more than the L20 and when it boosts it's fun.

Edited by old dude
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
Posted (edited)

I plan to, just wondering how difficult making pickup longer is and if there's anything else involved.

Edit: Can standard ecu still be plugged in or have pinouts been changed?

Hydraulic lifters or solid?

Edited by Socrates
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

How difficult was sump swap?

Was only a case of elongating the oil pickup and bolting on a front facing sump?

It's not a biggie. My car's oil pick up (originally from a 260z???) has been cut, pointed in the opposite direction, and welded again to suit an 280zx sourced L28 with a C210 sump.

I can confirm that you will need to modify your oil pick up, but don't expect a major hassle. Better news, your front facing sump bolts straight up to the L28 block. The biggest hassle you might face is deleting one of your 2 dipsticks (a sawn-off dipstick should do the trick).

Again, from my experience, 144HP odd at the rear is going to feel like you're in a rocket compared to standard C210 arrangement... as for 250 plus... that's actually an awesome number, being near on double the factory output, but possibly waaaay more poke than the original C210 drivetrain and brakes are going to cope with for long. Fun though!

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

its 144 HP at the Flywheel.

My auto L24e with microtech was 74kW and went harder than a mates stock 5 speed L20et.

as for pinouts, each engine and series and release year and even continent has a difference or 2.

The later the release date the better, well nearly. You could get stuck with the ECCS with Oxy sensor and Cat convertor... meaning emissions compliant.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

its 144 HP at the Flywheel.

My auto L24e with microtech was 74kW and went harder than a mates stock 5 speed L20et.

That's interesting!

My factory spec L20et 5 speed Paul Newman with it's 144HP, pulls up Mount's Ouseley & Kiera coming north from Wollongong @ 90kph in 5th without a care in the world with 2 up.

My old 7MGE MX83 auto Cressida couldn't do that with just me on board, unless I held it in 3rd to stop it jumping up to 4th & back to 3rd all the time.

And when I took it up the mountains the other week, it kicked ass going up Lapstone Hill off the end of M4 at Emu Plains.

Anybody that knows these roads in NSW can vouch that it is no mean feat.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...