Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With Windows 7 64-Bit And Usb To Serial Communication Problems

89CAL

By 89CAL,
in PC & Games Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Ok

My problem is with FC-Hako and FC Edit to start with. And before I start I'll say I basically bought the FC-Hako to see if I could get it to work on 64-Bit Windows 7, even though it is not officially supported. This was talked about before I ordered it, and if I couldnt get it to work it wasnt the end of the world

Anyway. FC Edit will work with the HAKO on my laptop, however it will after random time intervals apparently lose communication (get a warning "Interface Not Responding") There doesnt seem to be anything obvious that triggers it and I have tried a few things so far to fix it. First up I am running the latest Prolific USB to Serial drivers, have changed the COM port on the USB port I was using from COM 13 to COM 2, played with some of the basic settings for the device and also the FIFO buffers as well. I think lowering the FIFO buffers helped the problem but its hard to say because I could log from the Power FC for longer (it seemed) but it would still drop out

At the moment with the latest drivers, and how everything is now - When it drops out ("Interface Not Responding") I have to close down FC-Edit and restart it to get it to log or read again, sometimes have to disconnect and reconnect the FC-Hako as well. When I had the original drivers on there (the ones I had used a while ago to trial a friends Datalogit, 2007 drivers that where on the datalogit disk) it would drop out and I could sometimes get it to start logging again nearly straight away by starting the log again

Thats basically all I can think of now, basically taking a long shot and seeing if someone on here might have the magical answer for me. Its not an issue as I have access to a 32-bit Windows 7 laptop (which it works flawlessly on) but its not as convinent as using mine.

System specs if it matters.....

Windows 7 - 64 Bit version

4GB Ram

320GB hard drive

Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4GHZ

Thats all I can think of thats relevant lol.....

Thanks

Callan

  • 7 years later...
Dev RB25 Explorer

Dev RB25

Posted
Posted

I had a similar issue before, i resolved it by performing a clean install on the drivers. Ever since never had that error pop up again.

been using fc hako close to 3 years, still running great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...