Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know if i pull something the gtr becomes rear wheel so does that mean i can drift and how good does a gtr drift compare to a silvia because i have all those mods like oil cooler , suspension and roll cage that i dont want to go to waste when changing cars so i hope i can keep my gtr and drift as well

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/
Share on other sites

pull the 4 wheel drive fuse in the engine bay and youll drift all day and night, and next day amd week after and beter then any silvia, i dont even know why people waste their time drifting in sylvias. :flamed: :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-703161
Share on other sites

R32 GTRs weigh 1470kg, as opposed to a Silvia which is 1100kg from memory. Whilst the suspension and general design of the chassis of these vehicles is very similar, the Silvia is a much better choice for drifting due to the light weight and easy induced oversteer behaviour. For circuit racing however, its a whole different kettle of fish, when ATTESA is introduced.

This is not to say that you cant use a GTR for drift, it just isnt its ideal use. Much better than a HSV anyday...

R32 GTRs can just have the fuse pulled for slip and slide, not so easy in R33s however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-705051
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
32 GTR is just a matter of pulling a fuse or setting up a switch in cabin

33 GTR i am not 100% sure but i think the later ones need the shaft pulled out

In a 32 GTR yes u can pull the fuse to get it into rwd mode, but if u intend to drive all day in rwd mode u need to take the front shaft out otherwise u will burn out the transfer case.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-708487
Share on other sites

r32 takes 2 fuses to get into RWD, 1 under bonnet 1 in cabin... you can also get it into rear wheel drive by turning the car off and then on again while moving.... but as soon as you come to a complete stop the 4WD will re-engage.... by the way when you do both of these you also disable the ABS... :rofl: a fun and happy drifting...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-710771
Share on other sites

Its because the GTRs 4wd ATTESA system is electronically controlled. When the computer senses the rears loose traction it can send up to half the torque to the fronts. If you remove the fuse or install an inline switch etc, it will become rear driven only.

Some1 tell me tho, how hard is drift on a GTRs CVs? Because we all know how cheap our jap parts are...

^ I made that all up. But i think its close... ^

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-719660
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...