Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks like I voted in the "built engine failure" too early. althou this looks to be tune or fuel or something? only just click over 10k, recent tune to 700awhp HKS 2.8L CP pistons, TO4Z

long story short, noticed engine using oil, even after changing to a thinker oil,

#6 plug oily , #1 white ?? got compression and leakdown tests

compression (psi) 135, 135, 130, 130, 135, 130

Leakdown (%) 8, 6, 5, 5, 6, 10,

also had a look with the scope, can see #6 has some pitting damage from pinging? (detonation? ) the other pistons look ok ( from the top), so looks like at least 1 new piston. not sure whats going on with #1 ? in the leakdown.

anyway this was supposed to be a short story. If I was to pull the motor out, take the head off etc and just drop off the bottom end, to be stripped and rebuilt with new pistons ( lets just say we go for 6 new pistons, not sure what else would need replacing? bearings etc? ) the main Question from all this is, what is a reasonable price to pay for this job ??? assuming everything else is still serviceable .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351924-need-new-pistons-etc/
Share on other sites

Totally depends on what else you find when it gets pulled apart.

There might be a bit more than just piston dmg due to the detonation.

It could be 2.5k, it could be 4k

yeah i know, can't really say until it comes apart, just chasing ball parks, got a bit of a shock when the first price I got for the above job was $6500+ and that was if they didn't find anything else, ( thats a perth price )

looks like I voted in the "built engine failure" too early. althou this looks to be tune or fuel or something? only just click over 10k, recent tune to 700awhp HKS 2.8L CP pistons, TO4Z

long story short, noticed engine using oil, even after changing to a thinker oil,

#6 plug oily , #1 white ?? got compression and leakdown tests

compression (psi) 135, 135, 130, 130, 135, 130

Leakdown (%) 8, 6, 5, 5, 6, 10,

also had a look with the scope, can see #6 has some pitting damage from pinging? (detonation? ) the other pistons look ok ( from the top), so looks like at least 1 new piston. not sure whats going on with #1 ? in the leakdown.

anyway this was supposed to be a short story. If I was to pull the motor out, take the head off etc and just drop off the bottom end, to be stripped and rebuilt with new pistons ( lets just say we go for 6 new pistons, not sure what else would need replacing? bearings etc? ) the main Question from all this is, what is a reasonable price to pay for this job ??? assuming everything else is still serviceable .

You want to do bearings as well if you are pulling the pistons out due to detonation damage, no doubt they will be roughed up slightly as well.

Also if you can pull the motor out yourself and disassemble it as needed, get someone who knows what they are doing to diagnose the failures/damaged bits then buy the parts yourself and just pay a builder to put it back together you will save a fair bit.

Edited by Rolls

You want to do bearings as well if you are pulling the pistons out due to detonation damage, no doubt they will be roughed up slightly as well.

Also if you can pull the motor out yourself and disassemble it as needed, get someone who knows what they are doing to diagnose the failures/damaged bits then buy the parts yourself and just pay a builder to put it back together you will save a fair bit.

cheers, thats what I'll probably end up doing, try and save some cash and maybe learn a thing or two along the way..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...